港史文本 - HK In Texts: 堅人見誌-堅尼地城社區歷史回憶 | 長春社

西環七臺永昌香燭文具鐘聲慈善社牛房／屠房

The Seven Terraces Wing Cheung Joss Sticks Chung Sing Benevolent Cattle Depot / 3

of Sai Wan and Candles Society Slaughterhouse

公民村新杜洪記山貨竹器魯班先師廟雞鴨欄

Kung Man Village New To Hung Kee Mountain Goods Lo Pan Temple Poultry Laan

西環邨奇香村茶行西環盂蘭勝會焚化爐

Sai Wan Estate Kee Heung Chun Tea Company Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival Incinerator

聯邦新樓吳江南國術體育會長者服務中心公園

Luen Bong Apartment Ng Kwong Nam Martial Arts Elderly Service Centres Park

Gymnasium

序堅尼地城座落港島西端，靠住太平山山麓，依著摩星嶺，面向有人就有舖。湯漢泗一家從五十年代尾開辦紙紮舖，屹立至今，

卑路乍灣。龍脈所在，風水之地。早於一八八四年，已有學藝反映中國人拜祭鬼神傳統，根深蒂固。每年的魯班誕和盂蘭

徒弟建成魯班先師廟。堅尼地城的命名沿於第七任港督堅尼地勝會傳統祭祀，這裡歷久不衰。茶文化亦是中國人養生之道，

Arthur Edward KENNEDY（1872-1877）

，此地緊握出入維多無論貧富，都要飲茶。奇香村茶行在卑路乍街已逾半個世紀，

利亞港的西部咽喉，英治初期是艦隊進入香港必經之地。英人林文聰老板細訴當年。堅尼地城的行業五集紛陳，手藝行業

在摩星嶺設有炮台哨站，守住這要寨。同時，成為物資從珠江應運而生。杜氏家族在魚市場鄰近開了山貨竹器，自製竹籮，

三角洲過來的補給要地。應付盛載漁產的殷切需求。碼頭「咕喱頭」最喜歡習武，鍛練

體格，應付繁重的體力勞動。這一帶有許多武館，亦武亦醫。

以往，堅尼地城海旁至上環三角碼頭是全港糖、米、油、鹽、

元旦舞獅，少不了他們。

醬、醋、茶的集散地。倉庫、碼頭遍佈岸邊。牛棚、菜欄、果欄、

雞鴨欄、豬羊欄、屠房、魚市場、焚化爐樣樣俱存。工人腳踏如今，在堅尼地城走走，昔日的欄已不復見。那種小艇、工人、

獨木橋板，挑著重重的擔，一彈一彈地從貨船走下，正是藝高木頭車的雜亂和震天的喧嘩已成歴史。除了一些老舖，只有

人膽大，場面觸目驚心。清晨，木頭車、貨車；工人、買貨的、街道沒變。婉霞講的厚和街和科士街；蔡利達、林太和兒子

賣貨的，橫衝直撞，叫聲震天。那種墟冚情景，畢生難忘。林長健、李世業憶述的堅尼地城新海旁街等，都見證了這份

英人把堅尼地城當作環頭環尾，支援發展。英泥廠、煤氣鼓、滄桑。

以至殮房都在此。六十年代開始，焚化的「三支香」

，更破壞

眾人的回憶勾勒出堅尼地城變遷的軌跡，亦感謝香港賽馬會慈善

風水。到近十年，「三支香」才被拆卸。

信託基金的資助使本書得以出版。此書為堅尼地城的變遷史補

由英軍在一八四二年於「佔領角」（即上環水坑口）登陸，佔領上一筆。值得一讀。

香港，英軍盤踞西營盤，守堅尼地城，港島西部人流物流漸多，

社區隨之而成。李陞及子李寶龍是最早在此發展「豪宅」及

遊樂園，座落七臺山，可謂高瞻遠矚，得先機。何國祥憶述的熊永達博士， M.H.

西環七臺填補了這段歷史。杜月冰描繪的公民村是勞苦大眾長春社文化古蹟資源中心主席

的樂土，與七臺山相映成趣。阿娟口中的西環邨和徐先生講的

聯邦新樓是五六十年代建的公屋和私人屋邨，整個堅尼地城

由唐樓和平房屋，搖身變成高樓林立的社區。

FORWARD Kennedy Town is at the west end of Hong Kong Island. It is Since the British landed on “Possession Point” (i.e. Shui Hang

located underneath Victoria Peak, adjacent to Mount Davis and Hau of Sheung Wan) and occupied Hong Kong, they had been

facing Belcher Bay. It is a place where the “dragon line” passes garrisoning in Sai Ying Pun and fortifying Kennedy Town. The

and has good fengshui . As early as 1884, there were already western part of Hong Kong Island began to flourish with the

craft apprentices constructed Lo Pan Temple. Kennedy Town increasing flow of personnel and resources. Hence, a community

was named after the 7th Hong Kong Governor, Arthur Edward was formed. LI Sing and his son LI Po-lung were the earliest to

KENNEDY (1872-1877). This land is located on the western bank develop “luxury apartments” and amusement park on the Seven

of the chokepoint of Victoria Harbour, and was the gateway for Terraces. They had great foresight and could thus seize the new

Her Majesty’s Fleet during the early stage of British colonial rule. opportunities. HO Kwok-cheung’s memory filled the gap of this

On Mount Davis, the British built gun batteries and outposts to part of history. TO Yuet-ping’s narration of Kung Man Village, on

defend this stronghold. At the same time, Kennedy Town served the other hand, illustrated a paradise of the working class which

as an important supply port in the Pearl River Delta. contrasted interestingly to the Seven Terraces. Sai Wan Estate

as mentioned by Ah Kuen and Luen Bong Apartment revisited by

In the past, from Praya of Kennedy Town to Wing Lok Wharf

Mr. CHUI were two distinctive public and private residential

of Sheung Wan, this piece of harbourfront was the entrepot of

e s t a te s b u i l t i n t h e 19 5 0 s a n d 6 0 s . T h e y r e f l e c te d t h e

all food in Hong Kong with warehouses and piers all along the

transformation of Kennedy Town from a settlement of short

coast. Cattle depots, vegetable and fruit market, poultry laan,

tonglau and squatter huts into a town with high-rises.

slaughterhouse, fish market and even incinerator plant could

all be found in Kennedy Town. Coolies walked to and fro narrow Where there are people, there are shops. The TONG family

gangways to unload goods from cargo ships. You would hold your opened a paper crafting shop since the 50s and is still in business

breath watching them linewalking on the thin wooden planks nowadays. The Chinese tradition of deities worshipping is still

with heavy burdens on their shoulders. In the morning, wooden rooted in the public. The traditional celebrations for the birth

carts and lorries hustled down the roads while workers and of Lo Pan and Yu Lan Festival continue to thrive in this part of

dealers cried their sales. Such a bustling scene was a memory Hong Kong. While tea culture being the Chinese way of healthy

for a lifetime. The British considered Kennedy Town the edge living, tea has been a household necessity for all walks of life,

of city and thus designated it with a supportive role to urban which is nicely explained by Derek LAM, the young boss of the

development. Cement factory, gasholder and mortuary were all half-century old Kee Heung Chun Tea Company. Kennedy Town

thrown into this place. Starting from the 60s, there added the gathered many types of business, and handicraft had emerged to

incinerator three chimneys (“joss sticks”) which were considered meet their various needs. The TO Family opened a mountain goods

to have disturbed the fengshui . The “three joss sticks” were only store next to the fish market. They weaved bamboo baskets for

demolished in the last 10 years. sale in response to the booming demand of the fishery industry.

“Coolie heads” of the port of Kennedy Town loved martial arts.

They received physical trainings to prepare for their hard labour.

The martial arts schools in the vicinity not only taught kung fu,

but also offered medical services. Moreover, they were the stars

in every year’s lion dance.

The old laan and markets were gone when you visit Kennedy

Town today. The thundering noise and chaotic traffic of boats,

workers and wooden carts were already histor y. Apart from

some old shops, only the streets remain unchanged. The

memory of Hau Wo Street and Forbes Street of Yuen-har, and

the recollections of New Praya, Kennedy Town of Stephen CHOI,

Mrs. LAM and her son Ken LAM and Michael LEE, have reflected

the vicissitudes of Sai Wan.

The memories of these “Kennedians” have outlined the tracks

of how their town has transformed. I would like to thank HKJC

Charities Trust for sponsoring the publication of this book. This

book is a good attempt in filling a missing piece of the history of

Kennedy Town and is worthwhile to read.

Dr. HUNG Wing-tat, M.H.

Chairman of The Conservancy

Association Centre for Heritage

目錄 12 前言第四章節 120 牛房屠房 — 牛糞變鮮花

Preface 設施 Cattle Depot and Slaughterhouse –

CONTENT Building atop the dunghill

CHAPTER FOUR

第一章節 18 西環七臺 — 詩意地棲居 FACILITIES 128 雞鴨欄 — 雞毛鴨血一條街

民居 The Seven Terraces of Sai Wan – Poultry Laan – The street of feathers

The poetic of naming

CHAPTER ONE 136 焚化爐 — 污染還是污名？

HOUSING 28 公民村 — 消失的樂土 Incinerator – Blackening or blackened?

Kung Man Village – The lost paradise

146 公園 — 讓社區呼吸

36 西環邨 — 精緻的公共屋邨 Park – Let the community breath

Sai Wan Estate – The exquisite public estate

44 聯邦新樓 — 洋樓享受，唐樓消費第五章節 156 卑路乍街、北街 — 車路、人路

Luen Bong Apartment – Belcher's Street and North Street –

街道

Modern building quality at tonglau price The roads for vehicles and pedestrians

CHAPTER FIVE

STREETS 166 石山街、健文街 — 小巷的前世今生

第二章節 54 永昌香燭文具 — 小街老舖 Rock Hill Street and Kin Man Street –

店舖 Wing Cheung Joss Sticks and Candles – The now and then of an alley

A drop in the ocean

CHAPTER TWO 176 厚和街、科士街 — 從小販區到蘇豪西

SHOPS 60 新杜洪記山貨竹器 — 洪流拾遺 Hau Wo Street and Forbes Street –

New To Hung Kee Mountain Goods – From hawker market to Soho

The community weaver

184 堅尼地城海旁 — 海岸線的回憶

66 奇香村茶行 — 老字號與新世代 Kennedy Town Praya –

Kee Heung Chun Tea Company – The memory of coastline

Old brand in a new generation

72 吳江南國術體育會 — 醫武一家 194 堅尼地城大事年表

Ng Kwong Nam Martial Arts Gymnasium – Chronology of Kennedy Town

The kung fu medic

198 影像資料

第三章節 82 魯班先師廟 — 規矩長存 List of Images

鄰里 Lo Pan Temple – Precision and order

CHAPTER THREE 92 鐘聲慈善社 — 迴響深遠 202 鳴謝

NEIGHBOURHOOD Chung Sing Benevolent Society – Acknowledgement

Saved by the bell

100 西環盂蘭勝會 — 社區祭奠

Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival –

The community memorial ceremony

108 長者服務中心 — 老有所屬

Elderly Service Centres –

Sense of belonging for older adults

前言二零一四年年尾，地鐵向港島西延伸觸及堅尼地城，新式店舖筆者曾經住過青蓮臺，感受過這裏曲徑通幽的恬靜美好。這次

和重建項目相繼進駐。被賦予「小蘇豪」、「高級食肆」、「高尚走訪了近四十位堅尼地城街坊，以口述歷史的方式擷取他們

住宅」這些標籤，堅尼地城的過往似乎已被人遺忘：曾幾最難忘的生活經歷，讓每一段記憶都回應著社區的歷史點滴。

何時，與詩情畫意的樓臺相映成趣的，竟是令人避之唯恐不希望讀者能從書中認識昔日最貼地的堅尼地城。本書籌備時間

及的雞鴨欄；貨倉遍佈的海旁既見證了船運的繁榮，又承載著有限，若內容有所錯漏，還請讀者不吝賜教。

苦力的艱難歲月。在這裡可以凝視百餘年來佇立山中的精巧

堅尼地城的人，對堅尼地城的所見所憶，從這裡娓娓道來。

廟宇，亦能感受不斷變遷的海岸線……這些是時代的縮影，

也是堅尼地城的獨具一格。

將時間回溯到一八八五年十月十日，政府憲報第一次出現了

「堅尼地城」這個名字。這個維多利亞城最西端的土地，曾有

香港早期建成的遊樂場，也有「擸𢶍（垃圾）灣」之稱。許多

令人厭惡的設施 —— 屠房、殮房、墳場、傳染病醫院、一別亭

（送喪亭）、煤氣鼓 —— 隨著人口聚居和城市發展逐一搬遷或

清拆。堅尼地城在二十世紀下半葉發生著巨大的變化，而這個

改變呈現在街坊生活的方方面面。

民居、店舖、鄰里、設施、街道，這五種元素均是堅尼地城社區

生活之不可或缺，亦環環相扣。人們賴以生存的樓宇空間、滿足

日常需求的經濟活動、凝聚街坊的民間組織、凸顯社區功能的

設施規劃，還有日新月異的大街小巷，塑造出整個社區面貌。

而塑造者就是每一位街坊，是他們的生活軌跡勾勒出堅尼地城

的圖景，他們的回憶是對社區最真實的描繪。

PREFACE By the end of 2014, MTR West Island Line extended its service to where the communal functions were planned and streets where

Kennedy Town. New shops and redevelopment projects entered changes happened, they all contributed to the moulding of the

the town gradually. Kennedy Town is now a place branded as community’s appearance. Ever y kaifong is a moulder. Their

“sub-Soho”, “fine dining” and “luxury residence”. The past of this tracks of life sketched the outline of Kennedy Town, while their

place is being forgotten. It was once a poetic place contrasted memories illustrated the true faces of the community.

with obnoxious poultr y pens. The harbour front lined with

The author had lived on Ching Lin Terrace. Having walked

warehouses once witnessed the prosperity of sea freight while

the winding paths, I had experienced the tranquillity of this

holding the rough life of coolies. In this town you could appreciate

community. In this book, I have interviewed nearly 40 Kennedians

a hundred-year old temple while lamenting the everchanging

and recorded their most memorable life experiences through

coastline. These miniatures of time have given Kennedy Town its

oral histories. By echoing their memories with the histories of

uniqueness.

the community, it is hoped that readers could get to know the

Travelling back in time 10th October, 1885, the name “Kennedy past of Kennedy Town to the local tastes of these Kennedians.

To w n” f i r s t a p p e a r e d i n t h e G o v e r n m e nt G a ze t te . T h i s A s time is limited, please do not hesitate to advise on any

westernmost land of The City of Victoria had one of the earliest misinformation found in this book.

amusement parks in Hong Kong. It was also considered by many

Every Kennedian to his taste, the stories of people of Kennedy

as the “dirty corner”. There were many offensive facilities –

Town start from this point on.

slaughterhouse, mortuary, cemetery, infectious hospital, funeral

parlour and gasholder – which were either moved or demolished

one by one as the population grew and the town developed.

Kennedy Town has experienced dramatical changes in the second

leaf of the 20th Century and such changes were represented by

the various aspects of life of kaifong .

The five elements of housing, shops, neighbourhood, facilities

and streets formed up the community life of Kennedy Town and

they are mutually connected. Residential areas where people

reside, economic activities where daily necessities were fulfilled,

community organisations where kaifong are connected, facilities

民居二十世紀初葉的西環人口稀少，主要住宅集中於西環山上的七臺。

HOUSING

戰後人口逐漸增加，人們或搭建木屋，或租住唐樓板間房，居住

環境擠迫，生活比較艱苦。五六十年代，區內第一座廉租屋邨西環邨

落成，亦有政府或私人機構津貼的員工宿舍。六十年代末房協

觀龍樓落成為西環增添了二千餘個單位。隨著城市發展，西環曾

擁有逾千人口的平房區公民村、寮屋區逐一清拆，私人屋苑開始

改變社區面貌。六十年代末聯邦新樓初建成時，附近仍是雞鴨欄；

直至近二十年來，舊樓陸續重建，高尚住宅逐漸增多，為區內帶

來不少新居民。這一章節將選取堅尼地城歷史上較有歷史意義和

代表性的民居，重現昔日西環街坊的生活空間。

At the start of the 20th Century, the scarce population in Sai Wan

concentrated mainly on the Seven Terraces. After the WW2, the

population gradually increased. Leading a hard life, many built

squatter huts or rented sub-divided flats in tonglau . Around the

50s and the 60s, the first public housing estate in the district –

Sai Wan Estate – was built and staff quarters were provided by

both public and private sectors. Housing Society’s Kwun Lung

Lau was established in the 60s to provide 2 000 odd flats. Sai

Wan once housed the cottage area of Kung Man Village with over

1 000 residents. Squatter areas were cleared and were gradually

replaced by private housing estates. Luen Bong Apar tment

used to be surrounded by poultry pens when it was first built

in the 60s. Urban redevelopment has erected many high-end

residential buildings and brought about new residents to the

community. This Chapter attempts to reproduce the living spaces

of kaifong in Sai Wan through selected residences.

詩意地棲居

西環七臺

THE SEVEN TERRACES OF SAI WAN:

THE POETIC OF NAMING

民居 — 西環七臺 21

臺與臺之間有很多

何國祥生於一九三零年代的香港，戰後搬入羲皇臺

唐三樓，七十年代後期舊羲皇臺清拆時，何家購入

青蓮臺單位。如今年逾八旬的何老先生在西環七臺

連接，有後巷、小鋪⋯ 居住已有七十載。

會讓人有很多驚喜。

在蜿蜒的薄扶林道與寬闊的卑路乍街之間有一座山坡，街坊回憶

俗稱西環山，十九世紀末至二十世紀初曾屬於當時華人首富

「以前七臺的唐樓真的很美，走馬騎樓打通各單位。」從前的

李陞及其子李寶龍。大約在一九一五年至一九三五年期間，

羲皇臺擁有著兩排木結構唐樓，中間是一條大馬路，住客很多。

李寶龍在這座山坡上建造了香港早期的遊樂場 ——太白樓。

過年過節很是熱鬧。何老先生依稀記得，在他搬進羲皇臺早期，

二十世紀二十年代，李寶龍因生意失敗，不得不出售西環山的

經歷過二戰的紫蘭臺仍有炮彈痕跡，後來才重建。「紫蘭臺是

產業還債，後來的發展商在這座山坡上開闢了七個臺興建住宅，

一排唐樓，有條大坑渠。七臺中只有紫蘭臺和李寶龍臺是直的，

又稱「西環七臺」，如今仍保留著其中五個臺。

與其他五臺不同。李寶龍臺的街號是雙數排序，對面的紫蘭臺

李寶龍興建的太白樓遊樂場深受當時的文人墨客歡迎，裡有則是單數。」

旋轉木馬、人工湖、假山、射擊場，有魔術和大力戲（雜技）表演，

戰後五十年代，為了維護治安，七臺的居民曾自發成立警衛

更有猜謎等遊戲。據說太白樓的命名由於李寶龍姓李，他最喜

制度，在李寶龍臺的一間小木屋設看更亭，向每戶家庭每月收

詩人李太白的詩句。而後來西環七臺的命名是發展商為了紀念

取二元。「當時租金大約是每月十至二十元左右。到了七十年代

李寶龍，將這山丘上的其餘六座臺均取名與李白相關：從薄扶

末，羲皇臺宣佈即將清拆，為了不離開七臺，見到有間建築公司

林道往海邊排列的依次有學士臺（李白曾任翰林學士）

、桃李臺

在青蓮臺的大樹下放置一張檯賣青蓮臺樓花，就以十萬元買了

（取自李白的詩句）

、青蓮臺（李白別號青蓮居士）

、羲皇臺

現在的單位，一家七口搬進青蓮臺。」

（取自李白的詩句）和太白臺（李白字太白）

，東西兩邊縱向延

伸的分別是李寶龍臺和紫蘭臺（取自李白的詩句）

。一九八零如今，許多舊時鄰居逐漸搬離，但何老夫婦仍然幾十年如一日

年代初，紫蘭臺和李寶龍臺清拆，如今只剩下一條李寶龍路和駐守於此。「雖然樓梯很多，上下樓很辛苦，但是幾十年來也

西環五臺。習慣了。現在很多年輕人見到我拿著重物爬樓梯，都會主動上

前幫忙，鄰里關係仍如往昔。」

民居 — 西環七臺 23

「八零後」梁樂山於二零零八年從外區搬入位於

太白臺的太白居居住，被西環依山而建的社區生活

所吸引。

回憶

七臺可算得上是一個小小山城，它最吸引阿樂之處在於社區的

規劃和結構有許多可能性。「臺與臺之間有很多連接，有後巷、

小舖、露天的公共空間，會讓人有很多驚喜。」阿樂認為西環是

一個有生活氣息的社區，「這裡四通八達，很多小徑或許不是

政府規劃的，而是人們走出來的，為社區生活營造出相互聯繫

的空間，是自下而上的。」對於阿樂來說，這裡是為數不多仍

保留著歷史脈絡之處，「並不是一種連根拔起式的發展」。

HOUSING : SEVEN TERRACES IN SAI WAN 25

THE SEVEN TERRACES OF SAI WAN: HO Kwok-cheung, born in Hong Kong in the 1930s,

THE POETIC OF NAMING moved into the Third Tenement Floor of Hee Wong

Terrace af ter W W2. Af ter Hee Wong Terrace was

Between the winding Pok Fu Lam Road and the broad Belcher’s demolished in the late 70s, the HO family bought a flat

Street there is a slope. Kaifong used to call it Sai Wan Hill. It was unit on Ching Lin Terrace. Having passed the age of

once owned by LI Sing, the richest Chinese at that time, and his 80, Mr. HO has already lived on The Seven Terraces of

son, LI Po-lung, from the end of 19th Century to the early 20th Sai Wan for seven decades.

Century. Roughly between 1915 and 1935, LI Po-lung built one of

the earliest amusement parks in Hong Kong – Tai Pak Lau. In the

20s of the 20th Century, the business of LI Po-lung failed and he THE MEMORY

had to pay debt by selling Sai Wan Hill. The developer who took

“The tonglau of the Seven Terraces were very beautiful, with

over the Hill cut seven terraces to build residential flats, which

verandahs linking all flat units.” Hee Wong Terrace used to have

was called “The Seven Terraces”. Five of the terraces leave

two lines of tonglau with wooden structure on both sides of road.

until today.

There were many tenants, and the place was especially lively

The Tai Pak Lau Amusement Park of LI Po-lung attracted many during festivals. The old kaifong Mr. HO somehow recalled that

literati at that time. Inside, there were merry-go-round, artificial not long after he moved into Hee Wong Terrace, there were still

lake, rockery, shooting range, magic and juggling show as well bullet holes on the walls of the post-war Chi Lan Terraces before

as various games like quizzes. But how did Tai Pak Lau get its its redevelopment. “Chi Lan Terrace was a strip of tonglau with a

name? Some said that it was because LI Po-lung loved the poems large nullah. Amongst the Seven Terraces, only Chi Lan Terrace

of his favourite poet LI Bai, and in commemoration of LI, the and Li Po Lung Terrace ran from north to south, unlike other five

developer named the six terraces on this hill in connection with terraces (which run from east to west). The building numbers of

the poet LI Bai. In the order from Pok Fu Lam Road to the coast, Li Po Lung Terrace were even while those of Chi Lan Terrace on

five of them were Hok Sz Terrace (“Hok Sz”, i.e. Academician, the opposite were odd.”

was the official title of LI in government), To Li Terrace (“To Li”,

i.e. peach and plum, from one of LI’s poems), Ching Lin Terrace

(“Ching Lin”, i.e. pale purple lily, was an alias of LI), Hee Wong

Terrace (“Hee Wong”, i.e. Fuxi, the creator of humanity in Chinese

legends, was from one of LI’s poems), Tai Pak Terrace (LI styled

himself as Tai-pak). Two terraces ran vertically from north to

south were Chi Lan Terrace (“Chi Lan”, i.e. purple orchid, was

also from one of LI’s poems) and Li Po Lung Terrace. In early

1980s, Chi Lan Terrace and Li Po Lung Terrace were demolished.

What are left behind are a lonesome li Po Lung Path as well as

Five Terraces of Sai Wan.

HOUSING : SEVEN TERRACES IN SAI WAN 27

LEUNG Lok-shan, attracted by the lifestyle of the

hillside community of Sai Wan, is a “post-80s” who

has moved to Tai Pak Terrace, 36 Sands Street, from

Kowloon in 2008.

THE MEMORY

The Seven Terraces can be considered as a petite chateau. The

most attractive element of this community for LEUNG Lok-shan

is that there were many possibilities in its planning. “There

were many connections between terraces, such as back alleys,

In the post-war 50s, residents of the Seven Terraces set up their

small vendors or public open spaces, which will never fail to

own security system to maintain public order. A small wooden

surprise you.” Ah Lok thinks that Sai Wan is a community for

hut on Li Po Lung Terrace was designated as guard post, and

living, “Getting around here is a breeze. Many paths are not

each household had to pay a monthly fee of two dollars. “The

planned by the Government, but are rather walked out by people.

monthly rent at that time was between 10 to 20 dollars. In the

It is a bottom-up approach to create communicative spaces

late 70s, it was announced that Hee Wong Terrace was to be

for community living.” For him, this is a place where traces of

cleared. Not wanting to leave the Seven Terraces, when I saw a

history are preserved, but not another facelift of an “uprooting”

construction company set up a table under the tree on Ching Lin

development.

Terrace to pre-sell flats, I bought the current flat unit at 100,000

dollars. Hence my family of seven moved to Ching Lin Terrace.”

Today, many old neighbours have left the Terrace one by one, but

the HO couple continues to stay year by year. “Although there are

many steps and climbing up and down the stairs is tiring, it has

become a habit after decades. Now, many young people kindly

offer their help when seeing me climb up the stairs with heavy

stuff. The neighbourhood is still close as it used to be.”

消失的樂土

公民村

KUNG MAN VILLAGE:

THE LOST PARADISE

民居 — 公民村 31

從擠迫的徙置大廈

搬到公民村，

我們一家人都很開心。

公民村，又名摩星嶺平房區，是上世紀五十年代政府早期房屋

計劃選址於摩星嶺近堅尼地城的斜坡上興建的單層房屋，

供登記在冊的受災寮屋居民憑白卡購置居住。公民村共分四

期，由近堅尼地城的第一區向西延伸到第四區。房屋是石砌金

字瓦頂平房，二百餘尺，廚房灶位設有煙囪，兩至三間一排。一層

一層的房屋縱向台階式伸延，自山腳向上排列。政府亦派專人

負責管理、清潔和交地租，整個公民村於二零零二年完成清拆。

如今位於西環邨的摩星嶺街坊福利會原址公民村第一區。

街坊福利會成立於一九五五年，服務摩星嶺平房區的居民，

有救濟服務、康樂活動、建設基礎設施如街燈、石椅等，成立

獎學金等等。福利會自公民村清拆後搬遷，目前仍定期舉辦

社區活動，旨在為街坊謀福利。

杜月冰於一九五七年隨父母自徙置大廈搬入

摩星嶺公民村居住，至八十年代遷出後，亦一直居於

堅尼地城。

回憶

杜月冰的父親一九五七年以二千元購入公民村第一區一四四

號，「從擠迫的徙置大廈搬到公民村，我們一家人都很開心。」

屋子正對大海，晴天時欣賞夕陽西下，颱風時望著對面青州

燈塔掛起十號風球，雖然住的是石屋仔，但是結構還算穩固，

未受大風影響。據她回憶，當時摩星嶺一帶都是平房區。由於

屋內沒有水喉，制水時許多人要輪街喉，而月冰住的房屋由於

靠近山溪，能幹的父親自己用石塊圍起一個水池，並駁一條

管道將山溪水引入家中，更駁了幾條支喉，供鄰居們裝水，共同

渡過制水的歲月。

那些年日子不再，公民村也已清拆，居民們紛紛被安置到別

區的公共房屋。當年炊烟裊裊的村落如今只餘下荒草叢生、

頹垣敗瓦，杳無人煙。「說起堅尼地城的變化，當年摩星嶺一帶

遍佈住宅，可現今卻變得無比荒蕪。」童年的樂土如今已

不復見，月冰只有將美好的記憶保存在心中。

HOUSING : KUNG MAN VILLAGE 35

KUNG MAN VILLAGE : TO Yuet-ping moved to Kung Man Village of

THE LOST PARADISE Mount Davis from resettlement block together

with her parents in 1957. Although she moved

Kung Man Village, also known as Mount Davis Cottage Area, was

out of the Village in the 80s, she continues to

a cottage resettlement area where single-story cottages were

stay in Kennedy Town.

built on the slope of Mount Davis near Kennedy Town. It was a

part of the early Government’s housing scheme in the 1950s

designated for registered afflicted squatters to purchase with

THE MEMORY

their occupation permit (commonly referred to as the “White

Card”). Kung Man Village had four phases, extending westward The father of TO Yuet-ping bought No. 144, Area 1, Kung Man

from Area 1 near Kennedy Town to Area 4. Each cottage was built Village at 2,000 dollars in 1957, “Every member of my family

with stone and had a tiled pyramid roof. Around 200 square feet was happy for being able to move to Kung Man Village from the

in size, every unit had a chimney connecting the stove in kitchen. crammed resettlement block.” The cottage faced the sea. It

Two to three cottages a row, these lines of cottages climbed enjoyed the view of sunset in fine weather, as well as witnessed

parallelly up the slope from the foot of hill. The Government the hoisting of Signal No. 10 at the opposite Green Island

would send officers to manage, cleanse and collect rent from Lighthouse during typhoons. Despite being a stone hut, it was

the Village. It was only in 2002 that the whole Kung Man Village strong enough to withstand ferocious gales. As she recollected,

was cleared. Mount Davis was covered with cottages. As there was no water

supply directly into these stone huts, many residents had to

The Mount Davis Kai-fong Welfare Association currently in Sai

queue for standpipes during the period of water rationing. As

Wan Estate was once located in Area 1, Kung Man Village. The

Yuet-ping lived near a stream, her reliable father used some

Kai-fong Welfare Association was founded in 1955 to ser ve

stone plaques to dam up a small reservoir, and channelled the

residents of Mount Davis Cottage Area. It provided social aids,

water into the house with a pipe. He even installed several branch

recreational activities, constructed infrastructure such as

pipes for the neighbours to fill their water buckets. Together they

streetlamps, stone benches and offered scholarships, etc. The

struggled through the years of water restriction.

Association moved after the clearance of Kung Man Village. It

continues to organise regular community activities and strive for Those were the days, and Kung Man Village was demolished.

the welfare of kaifong . Residents were resettled to public housing units in other

districts. The smoky chimneys have disappeared from the foothill

of Mount Davis. The place is now deserted, being left in ruin with

weeds and rubbles. “What strikes me about Kennedy Town is that

the once populated Mount Davis has now become a wasteland.”

The paradise in childhood is no more, Yuet-ping can only relive it

in memories.

精緻的公共屋邨

西環邨

SAI WAN ESTATE:

THE EXQUISITE PUBLIC ESTATE

民居 — 西環邨 39

以前每逢中午時分，

彭氏兄妹阿娟和哥哥生於五十年代的西環，

一九五九年跟隨父母成為首批入住西環邨的居民，

七十年代搬離西環邨，今天仍居於堅尼地城。阿娟

小童群益會派牛奶，的姪女秀麗在堅尼地城長大，結婚後搬離該區，

直至二零一七年重返堅城居住。

很多人拿著牛奶樽排隊呢！

一九五零年代起，香港屋宇建設委員會為提升市民的生活環境，回憶

紓緩住屋緊張情況，開始發展廉租屋計劃。西環邨便是港島

北苑臺一個四百多呎的單位，六十年代時住著阿娟一家十二口。

第一批廉租屋邨其中之一，位於加多近街與加惠民道之間，

面對著碼頭海景，在魚欄工作的娟父每到下午三四時，從自家

原本稱作「加多近街廉租厦」，一九五八年落成時定名為

窗戶遠望有漁船即將泊岸，便下樓準備開工。除了東苑臺，其他

西環邨。由五座樓宇：東苑臺、南苑臺、西苑臺、北苑臺、中苑臺

幾座相互連通。鄰居們互通有無，關係融洽。最初的設施有

組成的西環邨是房委在中西區唯一的廉租屋邨，每戶擁有獨立

圖書館和小童群益會。「以前每逢中午時分，小童群益會派

的廚房、浴室，當時租金約每月六十多元至八十多元。西環邨

牛奶，很多人拿著牛奶樽排隊呢！」秀麗轉述父親的回憶。

共有六百多個單位，可容納四千餘人，可說是現時全港最小的

公共屋邨。依山而建的西環邨附近有許多木屋區，那裡的居民也會經

西環邨出入堅尼地城其他地方。木屋區居民大多會在自家

種菜。

「從西苑臺的後山可以翻過圍欄到旁邊的木屋區。有時

見到耕種的居民在田邊挖了一個氹裝些肥料，頑皮的小朋友就

拿石頭扔過去，弄得糞便沾滿全身！」說起童年趣事，秀麗父親

意猶未盡。

西環邨屹立至今已近六十年，走進這個如今看來很是「迷你」

的屋邨，卻覺得無比可愛和親切。單邊走廊設計通風舒爽，

家家戶戶打開大門，鄰居們出入相遇時點頭微笑，溫馨安樂的

生活不就是如此嗎？

HOSUING: SAI WAN ESTATE 41

The PANG siblings, Ah Kuen and her elder

brother were born in the 50s in Sai Wan. They

moved into Sai Wan Estate with their parents

and were amongst the first batch of tenants.

They moved out of the Estate in the 70s, but

have continued to live in Kennedy Town until

today. Sau-lai, the niece of Ah Kuen, also grew

up in Kennedy Town, lef t the district af ter

marriage. She moved back to her hometown

in 2017.

SAI WAN ESTATE :

THE EXQUISITE PUBLIC ESTATE

THE MEMORY

Since the 1950s, Hong Kong Housing Authority initiated the Low-

A flat in North Terrace is merely over 400 square feet in size,

cost Housing Estate scheme to improve the living environment

but it was the home of Ah Kuen’s family of 12 in the 60s. The unit

and to alleviate the housing shortage of Hong Kong citizens.

was gifted with the harbour view of the pier. As Ah Kuen’s father

Sai Wan Estate is amongst the earliest batch of public rental

worked at the fish market, at around 3 to 4 in the afternoon, he

estates in Hong Kong. It sits between Cadogan Street and Ka

would gaze afar from home to see if any fishing boat had berthed.

Wai Man Road. It was originally called “Cadogan Street Low-cost

It would be the time he left for work. Except East Terrace, all

Housing Estate”, and the name Sai Wan Estate was given when it

other blocks are interconnected. Neighbours were able to

completed its construction in 1958. It is a complex of 5 buildings,

better communicate and thus live in harmony. At the beginning,

namely East Terrace, South Terrace, West Terrace, North Terrace

the only facilities there were a library and the agency of The

and Central Terrace. Each flat has its own kitchen and bathroom.

Boys’ and Girls’ Clubs Association. “The Boys’ and Girls’ Clubs

The monthly rent was set at around 60 to 80 dollars initially. Sai

Association used to give out milk every day at noon. Many would

Wan Estate provides over 600 units and houses a population

queue up holding their milk bottles!” said Sau-lai relating to her

of over 4 000. It is at present the smallest public estate in

father’s memory.

Hong Kong.

HOUSING : SAI WAN ESTATE 43

There were many squatter areas near the contoured Sai Wan

Estate. Those villagers would also visit various parts of Kennedy

Town via the Estate. Many squatters grew their own vegetables.

“If you climbed over the fence at the back of West Terrace, you

could reach the adjacent squatter area. Farmers usually dug

a puddle to hold fertilizer. Occasionally I saw some mischievous

kids throw stones into the puddle and get poops all over them!”

The interesting childhood is a joy forever for Sau-lai’s father.

Sai Wan Estate is now 60 years old. Entering this “petite” estate

in nowadays’ standard, it is especially lovable and warm. Having

a design of cor r idor s on one side keeps the environment

ventilated. Every household opens the front door, and neighbours

will greet one another with a nod and a smile on their face. Is it

not the peaceful lifestyle we have all yearned for?

洋樓享受

聯邦新樓

唐樓消費

LUEN BONG APARTMENT:

MODERN BUILDING QUALITY AT

TONGLAU PRICE

民居 — 聯邦新樓 47

聯邦新樓平

出生於上世紀四十年代的徐先生十幾歲時已搬入

堅尼地城，聯邦新樓建成後跟隨父母搬入聯德新樓，

後亦與太太居住在聯邦新樓其他單位，直至今天。

聯邦新樓靚與徐先生同齡的戴太太於一九六七年搬入堅尼

地城，並購入聯字樓其中一單位作為成衣加工工場，

供貨給大丸、松坂屋、金鐘廊等商舖。

聯邦新樓於一九六零年代興建，毗鄰科士街、士美菲路、卑路回憶

乍街和爹核士街，共有八座樓宇，屬會德豐旗下聯邦地產有限

「聯邦新樓平、聯邦新樓靚」是聯邦新樓的售樓廣告，亦是徐氏

公司物業。其所在位置前身是麻纜廠，為旗昌洋行所設，更有

購入的原因。「一九六六年左右，聯德新樓的單位大概二萬至

一條「旗昌街」，後因興建聯邦新樓而消失。

三萬元，還送五千元傢俬裝修費。供樓的話首期是 9,940 元。」

六十年代城市開始發展，西環人口漸增。擁有「洋樓之美觀又平又靚的聯邦新樓有電梯、有水廁。對徐家來說比租住唐樓

設計，唐樓之價錢」的聯邦新樓定位為「大眾化的高尚唐樓」，板間房，沖涼只能在廚房的環境好太多了。這在當時來說相對

受到附近不少經濟狀況尚可，欲意改善生活環境的家庭住戶的低廉的樓價，或許是受到社區環境不佳的影響。據徐先生回憶，

歡迎。半個世紀過去，聯邦新樓周圍的地方已發生了翻天覆地「那時提起搬入西環，人們都不贊成，還說『那麼荒蕪的地方為

的變化，這個屋苑仍是西環不變的地標之一。什麼要搬入？！』」周圍不是工廠就是厭惡性設施，「西環真是

什麼都沒有！堅尼地城也沒有什麼娛樂的地方。」

民居 — 聯邦新樓 49

戴太太與徐太太是牌友，至今相識二十餘載，街坊情誼非常

深厚。當時西環有許多工廠，徐太太有時也會從附近的工廠大

廈拿一些半成品回家加工。那時手工業興旺，就連徐太的女兒

佩君也有幫忙，「我記得有幫媽媽黏旗子、釘茶包、做鬧鐘，

問她要零用錢花！」一邊在家看護小孩，一邊做手工幫補家用，

或許是那個年代家庭主婦的普遍情況。

半個世紀過去，聯邦新樓也已不再嶄新，但這個屋苑的名字卻

是許多西環人心中的地標，也代表了堅尼地城最熱鬧的地段。

HOUSING: LUEN BONG APARTMENT 51

LUEN BONG APARTMENT: THE MEMORY

MODERN BUILDING QUALITY AT TONGLAU PRICE

“Luen Bong Apartment, quality at a bargain” was the catchphrase

Luen Bong Apartment was built in the 1960s. Surrounded by for the sale advertisement of Luen Bong Apartment. This was also

Forbes Street, Smithfield, Belcher’s Street and Davis Street, the reason why the CHUI had bought their homes there. “In around

it consists of 8 towers. The complex was a property of Realty 1966, a flat at Luen Bong Apartment priced at approximately

Development Corpor ation Limited which was acquired by 20,000 to 30,000 dollars, yet it also came with 5,000 dollars rebate

Wheelock and Company Limited. The location was once a rope for furniture and decoration. The downpayment was only 9,940

factor y set up by Russell & Co. (i.e. “Kee Cheong” Company dollars for mortgage.” The economical Luen Bong Apartment

in Chinese). There was also a “Kee Cheong Street” which was came with elevators and offered independent water closet in each

removed due to the construction of Luen Bong Apartment. flat. The flat was big enough to house the whole CHUI family.

It was a great improvement comparing to their former home –

In the 60s, Sai Wan began to develop and the population grew a rental subdivided flat in tonglau where one could only bathe at

accordingly. Luen Bong Apartment, which was positioned as the common kitchen. The price was set at a relatively low level at

“high-class tonglau ” combining “the design of modern building that time, probably due to the unpleasant living environment of the

and the pricing of tonglau ”, was favoured by many relatively community. Mr. CHUI recalled, “When I told others that I was going

financially-comfortable households who wanted to improve their to move to Sai Wan, they all disagreed and said, ‘Why on earth

living environment. Half a century has passed. The surroundings would you want to move to such a desolated place?’” What were

of Luen Bong Apartment have undergone drastic changes. Yet, there were factories and nuisance facilities. “Sai Wan was really

this estate is one of the landmarks of Sai Wan that survived. boring! There was not much entertainment offered in the area.”

Born in the 40s of the last century, Mr. CHUI Mr s.TA I w as the mahjong-budd y of Mr s.CHUI. T hey have

moved to Kennedy Town since his teenage. known each other for nearly a jubilee and the bond is strong

W hen Luen Bong A par tment w as built, he as kaifong . There were many factories in Sai Wan in the past.

moved into one of the buildings, Luen Tak Mrs. CHUI would take some semi-products home to finish from

Apartments, along with his parents. Later, he the manufacturers nearby. It was a time when piecework was

lives in another flat with his wife until today. a thriving business, even Mrs. CHUI’s daughter Pui-kwan had

participated, “I remember helping my mon stick flags, staple

Mrs. TAI, who was of the same age of Mr. CHUI, teabags, assemble alarm clocks and asking her for pocket money

moved to Kennedy Town in 1967. She bought a afterwards!” Running a home production line while looking after

unit of Luen Bong Apartment and used it as a the children was the typical sample depicting the daily life of

garment-finishing workshop which had supplied housewives in that era.

retailers such as Daimaru, Matsuzakaya and

Half a century has past and Luen Bong Apartment is no longer

Queensway Plaza.

modern. Yet the name of this estate has already br anded

many residents of Sai Wan, marking the most vibrant area of

Kennedy Town.

店舖傳統店舖往往記載著社區的歷史發展，承載著街坊們的日常

SHOPS

生活，也構成了每個獨特的社區空間。昔日的堅尼地城曾是貨

運繁忙的碼頭，來自潮州的苦力們聚居於此，辛勞的苦力們為

了強身健體，許多加入武館，為社區慶典出一分力。在九大欄

聚集的西環，少不了文具舖和山貨竹器舖，為欄市提供所需

物品。小店的出現是為了滿足區內街坊的生活所需，小店的

危機也反映著時代變遷下人們生活模式的變化。隨著批發

市場搬離，舊樓重建，人口變遷，科技發展，社區面貌日新月異。

本章節記取了堅尼地城區內為數不多的傳統店舖，它們歷史

或長或短，卻都見證著西環數十年的變遷，訴說著昔日的社區

經濟。

Tr aditional shops recorded the development histor y of a

communit y. They suppor ted the daily living of kaifong and

formed a unique communal environment. Kennedy Town used

to be a busy port and many coolies from Chiu Chow settled

here. Many of them joined mar tial ar ts schools to keep fit

for the labour. They contributed to many festive events in the

communit y. Sai Wan gathered “The Nine Laan” and shops

selling stationery and mountain goods were there to supply the

markets with necessities. Small shops emerged to satisfy the

everyday needs of kaifong . The crisis faced by small businesses

reflects changes of lifest yle in time. When the wholesale

markets moved, old buildings redeveloped, population structure

shif ted and technology advanced, the faces of communit y

transformed accordingly. This Chapter includes a few rarely

found conventional shops in Kennedy Town. Having histories

long or short, they all witnessed the evolvement and economic

development of Sai Wan in the past decades.

小街老舖

永昌香燭文具

WING CHEUNG JOSS STICKS AND CANDLES:

A DROP IN THE OCEAN

店鋪 — 永昌香燭文具 57

當年的厚和街

回憶

走進舖內，兩邊貨架上貨品琳琅滿目，一邊主要是衣紙和香燭，

是街市，很多檔口另一邊卻放滿了文具。如今類似的舊式文具舖幾近絕跡。會將

文具和香燭紙紮品一起售賣的原因，據湯先生解釋，「是因為

買賣需要文具單簿

文具和紙紮品的淡旺季正好分開：傳統節慶和誕期是紙紮祭品

的旺季，而開學及開市則是文具的旺季，這樣便能保證全年的

收入。」每逢節日和誕期，繼承了家族手藝的湯先生還會親自

紮作祭品，供街坊鄰里選購。

紙紮是許多傳統節慶和宗教儀式上的祈福和祭祀用品。除了旺季互補之外，永昌號座落的這個社區對於文具及

在西環有一家香燭紙紮舖，亦是一間文具舖。店舖的東主紙紮品需求量亦很大。據湯先生回憶，「當年的厚和街是街市，

湯漢泗先生一家於一九五七年從家鄉廣州來到香港，他跟父親很多檔口買賣需要文具單簿，附近有魚欄、菜欄、酒樓，區內

以家鄉的手工業——紮作謀生。成立於六十年代的紙紮舖原址還有屠房，所以店舖的生意很旺。」許多西環的商戶都會幫襯

已拆卸，現今「永昌」這個店名是為了紀念湯父，約於七十年代永昌老字號，訂單一年四季不斷。除了文具，紙紮祭品也頗受

正式紮根在厚和街二十三號。湯先生是家族紙紮業的第三代西環街坊歡迎。「西環多潮州人，傳統節日時許多街坊都會來

傳人，至今仍默默守護著西環厚和街。購買祭品和香燭元寶。」

時移勢易，隨著科技發達、社區轉型，如今傳統文具和紙紮品都

乏人問津。「現在的新式樓宇都禁止燒衣紙，附近的批發市場和

屠房也搬走了，再加上電腦普及和電子化，生意一落千丈。現在，

雖有些外國人會由於好奇來買些香燭，但始終是杯水車薪。」

從熱鬧的市集搖身變為冷清的小蘇豪街，湯氏夫婦見證了

厚和街和堅尼地城的變遷。

SHOPS : WING CHEUNG JOSS STICKS AND CANDLES 59

WING CHEUNG JOSS STICKS AND CANDLES : Apart from the factor of high and low seasons, the community

A DROP IN THE OCEAN w here W ing Cheung w as founded in f ac t needed a lot of

stationery and paper-crafts. As Mr. TONG remembered,“Hau Wo

Papercrafts are used in many traditional festivals and religious

Street used to be a market. Many stores needed stationery and

ceremonies as offerings. In Sai Wan, there is a paper crafting

books for their trades. There were also fish market, vegetable

shop which sells also stationer y. The owner, Mr. TONG Hon-

market, restaurants and abattoir in the district. We had had

si, and his family migrated to Hong Kong from Guangdong in

good sales.” Many businesses in Sai Wan would purchase from

1957. His father earned a living by the renowned handicraft of

Wing Cheung, and orders kept pouring in across the whole year.

his homeland – paper crafting. The old site of the paper crafting

Apart from stationery, paper offerings were also welcomed by

shop set up in the 60s was already demolished. The current shop

the kaifong of Sai Wan. “Many Chiuchownese lived in Sai Wan.

“Wing Cheung”, which started business at 23 Hau Wo Street

Kaifong would come to buy ritual products such as joss sticks,

around the 70s, was named in remembrance of TONG’s father.

candles and paper offerings.”

Mr. TONG is the third generation of his family to enter the paper

handicraft industry, and he continues to stay subtly on Hau Wo Time has changed. As technology advances, the community

Street, Sai Wan. evolves as well. Traditional stationery and paper-crafts have

become less saleable nowadays. “Residents are restricted from

THE MEMORY burning paper offerings in modern building. The wholesale

markets and abattoir have been moved away. In addition to the

Entering the shop, there is a wide range of products filling the

popularisation of computer and digitalisation of everything, my

racks on both sides. On one end it is mainly loaded with paper

sale has dropped drastically. Some foreigners will buy some of

offerings, joss sticks and candles, while on the opposite it is

my joss sticks out of curiosity, but it is no help even for covering

packed with stationery. This kind of old style stationery shops

the cost.” Turning from a bustling into a quiet sub-Soho, the

is nearly extinct. As for why stationery is sold alongside ritual

TONG couple have witnessed the rise and fall of Hau Wo Street

products, Mr. TONG explained, “It is because the high and low

and Kennedy Town.

seasons for selling stationery and paper offerings are mutually

exclusive. The peak seasons for paper products are at traditional

festivals, while those for stationer y are at the beginning of

school year and resumption of business after major holidays.

Selling both can ensure a stable income throughout the year.”

For every festival, having succeeded the family craftsmanship,

Mr. TONG will make the paper products himself for the kaifong to

choose from.

洪流拾遺

新杜洪記山貨竹器

NEW TO HUNG KEE MOUNTAIN GOODS:

THE COMMUNITY WEAVER

店鋪 — 新杜洪記山貨竹器 63

不只西環，

大澳和筲箕灣的漁民都

時有幫襯杜洪記。

回憶

傳統社區常見的店舖之一便是山貨店。顧名思義，「山貨」的老店總與社區歷史密不可分。與吉席街一街之隔的加多近街曾

意思是指用一些竹、藤、草等「來自山上的」材料編製而成的是魚市場，漁船運輸漁獲、海鮮需要竹籮盛載。上世紀六七十年

物品。竹器與藤器曾是昔日許多街坊的日常生活家品。堅尼代正值香港漁業黃金時期，據杜先生回憶，「不只西環，大澳和

地城有一間山貨舖——杜洪記。這個字號最早可追溯到二戰後筲箕灣的漁民都時有幫襯杜洪記。」從竹到竹篾，再編織成器，

約一九四五年，由杜氏兄弟打理。杜氏家族於上世紀三十年代每一件竹籮都是杜氏家族的心血和手藝。後來，由於手製竹器和

自家鄉逃難到香港，靠手工製作竹器和藤器謀生，並以杜氏藤器利潤微薄，杜洪記便兼賣傢俬幫補收入。適逢六十年代起，

父親的名字為店舖命名，落腳西環。杜洪記曾有自己的製造西環陸續有許多唐樓、公共屋邨和木屋區入伙，居民們需要購買

工場，全盛時期有十個夥計，自七十年代後工場停止經營，傢俬，杜洪記頗受街坊歡迎。

如今只剩下一間地舖，仍然佇立於電車路旁的吉席街五十二號。

時代的洪流難以抵抗，與昔日繁榮的加工工場相比，如今店舖

可謂門庭冷落，西環已不復當年景況。批發市場遷走、製造工廠

結業，居民所需的大件傢俬也已被裝修公司承包，杜洪記逐漸

貨品囤積，銷量慘淡。日日駐守在店舖的杜老先生也是百無聊賴，

時而跟路過的老街坊攀談，打發時間。

「以前門口有一塊比較顯眼的『新杜洪記』招牌，後來據說不

符合消防條例也拆除了。現在沒有什麼生意，也不知道還能支撐

多久。」杜先生不禁慨嘆，語氣裡透露著無奈和悲觀。儘管如此，

他仍然選擇每日留守在店內，聽著街上不曾改變的電車叮叮聲，

凝視著這個曾經生活了幾十年的社區。

SHOPS : NEW TO HUNG KEE MOUNTAIN GOODS 65

NEW TO HUNG KEE MOUNTAIN GOODS: Yet, tides of histor y cannot be resisted. Compared to the

THE COMMUNITY WEAVER workshop in the old days, the current shop has become quieter.

Sai Wan has lost its old glory. The wholesale market has moved

One of the most commonly seen shops in an old community is

away and manufacturers have closed down. The demands of

the mountain goods shop. As its name tells, “mountain goods”

residents for larger furniture have been captured by interior

means products made of materials found on the mountain,

decoration firms. The commodity in To Hung Kee started to

such as bamboo, rattan and grass. Bamboo- and rattan-wares

overstock for being unmarketable. Mr. To, manning the shop

were once the daily necessities of many kaifong in the old days.

daily, has nothing better to do than chatting up with the old

In Kennedy Town, there is a mountain goods shop – To Hung

kaifong who passed his door for time killing.

Kee. Managed by the TO brothers, the brand To Hung Kee can

be traced back as early as the post-war 1945. The TO Family “There used to be a more eye-catching sign inscribing ‘New To

escaped from their hometown to Hong Kong in the 30s of the last Hung Kee’ at the front of shop, but it was removed for violating

century and they handcrafted bamboo- and rattan-wares for a some Fire Safety Ordinance. I don’t do much business nowadays

living. The brothers settled in Sai Wan and opened a shop named and I have no idea how much longer I can hold out,” lamented

after their father. To Hung Kee once had its own workshop and Mr. TO in pessimism and helplessness. Against all odds, he

had 10 employees in its heyday. The workshop closed in the 70s. has decided to stand his ground and continue listening to the

Now, there is only a street shop still standing at 52 Catchick unchanged melody of tram bell and gazing into the community he

Street, next to the tramway. has lived for decades.

THE MEMORY

Old shops are the living histor y of a communit y. Cadogan

Street, which is adjacent to Catchick Street, was used to be a

fish market. Fishermen needed bamboo baskets to hold their

catches. It was the golden era for the fisheries in Hong Kong in

the 1960s and 70s. Mr. TO recalled, “Not only fishermen from Sai

Wan, those from Tai O and Shau Kei Wan were also customers

of To Hung Kee.” Bamboos were peeled into strips which were

then weaved into various tools. Each bamboo basket held the

sweat and skills of the TO Family. Later, as the margin for selling

handmade bamboo- and rattan-wares was meagre, To Hung

Kee started selling furniture as a new source of income. It was

the 60s when many moved into the tonglau , public estates and

squatter areas in Sai Wan, that many residents needed to furnish

their flats. To Hung Kee was very popular amongst the kaifong .

老字號與新世代

奇香村茶行

KEE HEUNG CHUN TEA COMPANY:

OLD BRAND IN A NEW GENERATION

店鋪 — 奇香村茶行 69

回憶

「整個堅尼地城，至少在這條街，我們算是最悠久的店舖

之一了。」奇香村茶行可謂西環老字號，早在六十年代已在卑路

整個堅尼地城，至少在乍街開業。據林先生說，當時在中環已開設店舖的林氏祖輩，

看中了西環尾靠近碼頭、運輸便利的地理位置，便購入現址作

這條街，我們算是最悠久為茶葉的零售和批發場所。店舖雖然往西搬遷，卻無阻老街坊

一如既往的支持。

的店鋪之一了。傳承了八十年的字號如今由新一代林氏後人接手。林文聰先生

自二零零七年回流接手祖業，在重整業務上花了不少心思和

精力。在產品的包裝上，仍保留老店的傳統復古包裝，並策劃

不同的推廣活動，迎合潮流和大眾的口味。「以前茶是家家

戶戶必備飲品，顧客會選購平價、大量的茶葉。現在家庭人數

上世紀五十至七十年代，是茶行最興盛的時代，西環也

減少，年輕客人開始注重茶葉的品質，追求健康和精緻。不過

曾有不少。今日仍保留著的西環老字號，要數一九三八

香港人始終太忙碌，沒有時間慢慢沖茶。」林先生笑談香港人

年業已成立的奇香村茶行，至今已有八十年光景。創辦人

飲茶的普遍現象。

林氏祖輩最初於中環皇后大道中開舖，後來搬至士丹

利街，於此同時在西環尾亦開設分舖。位於中環的店舖在傳統店舖總不免要應對社區的發展。面對西環的變遷，成長

結束前曾遷至威靈頓街。茶行座落於西環卑路乍街三十號 A 已於區內的林先生則比較坦然。「地鐵通車之後，街道確實比以

逾半世紀，現今由第三代接班人林文聰先生經營。前旺。」對於店舖的將來，他也滿有信心，「老街坊認識我們，

就算搬離了西環還是會回來找我們。現在有了地鐵，要回來就

更加方便了。」時至今日，奇香村三個字已成為老街坊心中為數

不多的西環回憶。

SHOPS : KEE HEUNG CHUN TEA COMPANY 71

KEE HEUNG CHUN TEA COMPANY: This 80-year-old legacy has now passed to the latest generation

OLD BRAND IN A NEW GENERATION of the LAMs. Derek Man-chung LAM returned to Hong Kong from

abroad in 2007 to succeed the family business. He has paid much

From the 50s to the 70s of the last century, tea companies were

effort and imbued new thinking in re-branding. While keeping the

at their peak. Many of them were in Sai Wan. Yet, if you want

traditional vintage packaging of products, different promotion

to find old brands which are still operating in Sai Wan, Kee

campaigns are organised to catch up with the latest trend and

Hueng Chun Tea Company is amongst one of them. Opened

to cater for the taste of the public. “Tea used to be an essential

as early as in 1983, it is now 80 years old. The founder was

household drink that customers preferred purchasing cheap

the grand generation of the LAM Family who opened the first

tea en masse. Nowadays when the household size diminishes

shop at Queen’s Road Central. They later moved to Stanley

and younger consumers have greater concern over the quality of

Street while setting up a branch at the further end of Sai Wan.

tea, people now seek products which are healthy and exquisite.

Before retreating from Central, the main branch had moved to

Nonetheless, Hongkongers are too busy to enjoy brewing tea

Wellington Street. The Tea Company has sat on 30A Belcher’s

in leisure,” commented Mr. L AM with a laugh on the general

Street in Sai Wan for over half a century. It is now run by the third

phenomenon of tea drinkers in Hong Kong.

generation of the LAMs, Derek.

H o w e v e r r e l u c t a n t , t r a d i t i o n a l s h o p s h a v e to f a c e t h e

THE MEMORY

advancement of community. Taking on the changes of Sai Wan,

“Our shop has the longest history in Kennedy Town, at least for Derek, who was a local born, seems to be relatively readier than

this street.” Kee Heung Chun Tea Company was long-established others. “After the MTR has reached us, there have been more

on Belcher’s Street, Sai Wan since the 60s. According to Mr. visitors in the area.” Derek is getting more confident regarding

LAM, his grandfather eyed on the geographical advantage of the the future of his shop, “We are well known amongst the kaifong

western end of Sai Wan. Being close to the pier, transportation who keep returning even though we have moved to Sai Wan.

was convenient. Hence, he bought the current location for retail Now we are connected by the MTR and they will only be more

and wholesale of tea. Moving westward has not deterred kaifong convenient when coming to us.” The three characters “Kee

from patronising. Heung Chun” have become a part of the handful memories of Sai

Wan left in the minds of old kaifong .

醫武一家

吳江南國術體育會

NG KWONG NAM MARTIAL ARTS GYMNASIUM:

THE KUNG FU MEDIC

店鋪 — 吳江南國術體育會 75

西環曾是一個貨運繁忙的港口，從士美菲路到海旁一帶，曾經

鄰里關係還是

有許多碼頭，也是貨倉集中地。貨物靠工人從船上搬上岸邊，

靠勞力賺取報酬。這些工人常被稱為「苦力」、或者「咕哩」。

很親密，到現在

西環一帶曾有許多武館，不少咕哩都會去武館習武傍身。

吳江南師傅出生於六十年代初，自小居住在薄扶林村，十一歲

仍有不少西環街坊來

時跟隨梁輝師傅拜「獅」學藝，後梁師傅搬到西環繼續開館

授徒，吳江南師傅也一路追隨。後來吳師傅在堅尼地城開設

醫館談天，

跌打醫館，服務西環街坊，行醫濟世。

回憶以前的點滴。

店鋪 — 吳江南國術體育會 77

回憶

說起西環武館的學徒，要數當時從事碼頭貨運的工人。「七十

年代初，堅尼地城一帶有很多館口，來自多個派別。」吳江南

的師公莫民恩來自廣東新會，是堅尼地城米倉搬運工人，俗稱

「咕哩頭」，後來在北街開設醫館，會分租床位給其他搬運工

人居住。吳江南印象最深的是，以前每年天后誕前夕，武館會

租船到堅尼地城泊岸，先在碼頭的空地舞獅、耍功夫表演，然後

大家上船慶祝一晚，翌日到佛堂門大廟賀誕。

每逢節慶，社區鄰里總有武館的身影。據吳師傅回憶，「年少

時曾跟隨師傅和師兄弟們出獅過魯班廟和北街街市，在農曆

年三十晚到觀龍樓和西環邨『派財神』。」

「派財神」是指在一張

紅紙上寫上「財神」字樣，然後到屋邨的走廊大叫「財神到」，

住客聽到後會到門口迎接財神，隨意給利是，這是七十年代的

文化。

六十年前的西祥街海旁，曾是貨倉遍佈的場景。如今這些

場景雖然不再，但吳師傅的醫館依然服務著社區，是街坊

心中的歇腳地。「鄰里關係還是很親密，到現在仍有不少西環

街坊來醫館談天，回憶以前的點滴。」

SHOPS : NG KWONG NAM MARTIAL ARTS GYMNASIUM 79

NG KWONG NAM MARTIAL ARTS GYMNASIUM : I t w a s n o t d i f f i c u l t to f i n d m a r t i a l a r t s s c h o o l s i n a n y

THE KUNG FU MEDIC neighbourhood during festivals. As recalled by Master NG,

he used to follow his troupe to perform lion dances at Lo Pan

Sai Wan was once a busy cargo port. From Smithfield down to

Temple and North Street Market. In Chinese New Year Eve, he

the shore, there used to be many piers and warehouses. Goods

also participated in “pai-choisan ” (literally “to distribute the God

were unloaded from ship by workers who exchanged bread with

of Wealth”). During the event, people would write the characters

sweat. These workers were called “coolies”. There were also

“choisan ” on red papers. Then they would announce the “arrival

many martial arts schools in the vicinity of Sai Wan where lots of

of choisan ” in the corridors of estates. When the residents heard

coolies learnt kung fu for self-defense.

the call, they would “receive the choisan ” at the door and gave

Kung fu master NG Kwong-nam was born in the early 60s. He the callers red pockets in return. This was a culture of the 70s.

has been living in Pok Fu Lam Village since he was young. He

By the coast of Sai Cheung Street in the 60s, there formerly

studied lion dance under his master LEUNG Fai at 11 years old.

lined with warehouses. Those were the days bygone. Yet, the

Later, when Master LEUNG moved his martial arts school to Sai

clinic of Master NG still stands. It continues to open its doors to

Wan, NG followed. Some time later, Master NG opened his bone-

the community, and has become a place to hang out for many

setting clinic in Kennedy Town. Heeding to the teachings of his

kaifong , “The neighbourhood is still close. Many kaifong of

late master, NG dedicates himself to serve the kaifong of Sai Wan

Sai Wan still visit my clinic just for a chat and reminisce the

by healing the sick.

old days.”

THE MEMORY

Logistic workers of cargo piers represented a significant portion

of martial arts students in the past Sai Wan in the past. “In

the early 70s, there were many martial arts schools of various

kung fu ancestries.” The grandmaster of NG, MOK Man-yan was

originated from Xinhui, Guangdong, and worked as the “coolie

head” in a rice granar y in Kennedy Town. He subsequently

opened his clinic and rented out beds for other workers. What

gave Master NG the deepest impression was the eve of Tin Hau

Festival every year in the old days. His martial arts school would

hire a boat and berth at Kennedy Town. First, they would perform

lion dance and kung fu at the open ground of the pier. Then, they

would return to the vessel to celebrate the whole night. On the

next day, they would attend the ceremony at the Joss House Bay

Tin Hau Temple.

鄰里二十世紀中葉，隨著香港人口增加，社會資源匱乏，民間出現了

NEIGHBOURHOOD

許多組織服務居民。當時西環聚居著許多基層人口，例如苦力、

小販、木屋區居民等。碼頭苦力們加入武館，每年為魯班誕舞獅

慶祝，潮籍街坊組織盂蘭勝會，這些社區慶典或節日不僅延續

著傳統精神，更凝聚了鄰里坊眾。四五十年代，一些教會團體、

慈善機構和街坊組織紛紛於堅尼地城開展服務。為應對當時

孩童上學的需求，區內學校紛紛成立，亦有圖書館、青少年

中心設立於公共屋邨內。隨著社區人口老齡化，長者服務於八十

年代初現西環，如今已成為區內服務的主流。本章節將從不同

年代的社區組織與服務的角度細看堅尼地城社區關係的維繫。

In the mid-20th Centur y, while Hong Kong population grew,

social resources remained scarce. Many NGOs arose to serve

the public. At that time, Sai Wan lived many grassroots such

as coolies, hawkers and squatters. Coolies at the piers joined

mar tial ar ts schools and performed lion dances for Lo Pan

Birthday annually, while many Chiuchownese jointly organised

the Yu Lan Festival. These community festivals and events not

only succeeded the traditions, but also strengthened the bonding

within the neighbourhood. Around the 40s and the 50s, some

religious groups, charity organisations and kaifong associations

offered their ser vices in Kennedy Town. Many schools were

founded to cope with the education needs of children. Libraries

and children and youth services centres were set up in public

housing estates. A s the population aged, elderly ser vices

entered Sai Wan in the 80s, which has now become the main

type of social services. This Chapter will review the maintenance

of social networks in Kennedy Town from the perspectives of

various communal organisations and services.

規矩長存

魯班先師廟

LO PAN TEMPLE:

PRECISION AND ORDER

鄰里 — 魯班先師廟 85

屬兩進式建築物的廟宇雖規模不大，但設備完善，且廟內文物

眾多：碑記、匾額和泥塑雕刻尤足珍貴。廟宇的壁畫，更是港島

華人廟宇中數量最多之一。這所廟宇之所以凝聚了眾多能工

巧匠的智慧，是因為廟內供奉著三行祖師魯班。魯班原名公輸班

（或公輸般），春秋末葉魯國人。他發明了許多工具，例如墨斗、

曲尺、鋸、斧等，被後人奉為建造業先師。農曆六月十三的魯班

先師誕慶祝儀式隆重，有三牲酒禮，醒獅舞龍。很多三行同工、

建築行業機構會在這天拜祭祖師，以表敬意。

沿著薄扶林道近蒲飛路處一條鬱鬱蔥蔥的小徑拾級而下，

有一座精巧的廟宇遺世獨立。位於青蓮臺十五號的魯班先師廟

建於清朝光緒十年（一八八四年），供奉三行（從前的三行主要是勞鑑先生於二零零二年至二零零六年出任廣悅堂

木工、泥水及打石）祖師魯班。廟宇所在的地段，原屬於富商主席，一直在廣悅堂服務，每年籌辦魯班誕賀誕，

李陞，後以其禮興號的名義捐贈給廣悅堂公所。一九四九年，以及舉辦青年魯班選舉活動。

廟宇旁廣悅堂公所建成，負責管理魯班廟。魯班廟和廣悅堂分別

被評為香港一級和三級歷史建築。

回憶

位於魯班廟旁的廣悅堂公所由勞鑑父親的建築公司勞炳記

位於魯班廟旁的承建，於二零一五年易名為「香港魯班廣悅堂」，並申請成為

慈善團體。秉持著服務社群的本心，廣悅堂早於上世紀四十年代

廣悅堂公所由勞鑑父親的開辦義學，當時並未建立公所，則於灣仔租借地方辦學，供三行

子弟或有需要人士入學。在勞鑑任主席時，廣悅堂跟建造業

建築公司勞炳記承建

議會合作，舉辦了「青年魯班選舉」，旨在嘉許本地建造業界的

傑出年青學員，以冀傳承魯班精神。

鄰里 — 魯班先師廟 87

對歷史古蹟有著濃厚興趣的建築設計師馮立和

蘇陽彪兩年前自發組成二人團隊研究魯班先師廟，

他們利用業餘時間潛心進行測繪和訪問，繪製建築

圖紙，從不同角度展現廟宇的建築特色和歷史故事，

並希冀將來能將成果展示，與公眾分享。

回憶

「魯班廟的高度很高，差不多有十二米，在屋脊和側面有許多

裝飾，尤其是五嶽朝天式山牆，可謂全港罕見。這樣的設計可能

跟地形有關，青蓮臺和桃李臺中間有一定的高差，這樣設計能

讓人即使站在廟後的桃李臺亦能欣賞廟宇脫穎而出的屋脊和

山牆。」進行了大量的測繪研究，蘇陽彪和馮立共同繪製出的平面

圖栩栩如生，

「我們想記錄真實的魯班廟，每一樣物品如何擺放，

都跟廟宇和芬叔（廟祝）的生活息息相關，無論是用來防鼠的

木板，還是電風扇、供品等，都是空間與時間過程的一部分。」

「準繩分曲直，規矩定方圓。」無論是三行前輩或是「青年

魯班」，都將繼承魯班先師做人處事的態度，不斷鑽研和實踐，

福蔭社區。

NEIGHBOURHOOD : LO PAN TEMPLE 89

LO PAN TEMPLE : LO Kam was the Chairman of Kwong Yuet Tong

PRECISION AND ORDER from 2002 to 2006. He has been serving Kwong

Yuet Tong as well as organising the birthday

Walking down a small and winding path from Pok Fu Lam Road

celebration of LO Pan and the Young Lo Pan

near Pokfield Road, there stands a small isolated temple.

Awards Contest.

Situated at 15 Ching Lin Terrace, Lo Pan Temple was built in 1884

in Tsing Dynasty, dedicated to the patron saint of Chinese builders

and contractors – LO Pan. The land where the temple sits was

THE MEMORY

donated by the tycoon LI Sing through Lai Hing Ho Company to

Kwong Yuet Tong. In 1949, Kwong Yuet Tong Public Office was Next to Lo Pan Temple was Kwong Yuet Tong Public Office,

built next to the temple, responsible for the management of the built in 1949 by the construction company Lo Ping Kee which

latter. Lo Pan Temple and Kwong Yuet Tong Public Office were was owned by LO Kam’s father. In 2015, the organisation was

graded as Grade 1 and Grade 3 Historic Buildings respectively. renamed as “Hong Kong Lo Pan Kwong Yuet Tong” and registered

as a charity. Striving to serve the community, Kwong Yuet Tong

The temple was of a two-hall structure which is not at all large.

set up free school in the 1940s. At that time, the Public Office

Yet it is well equipped and was full of historic items, such as

was not yet built. For that reason, they had to borrow venues

those invaluable plaques and sculptures. The number of wall

in Wan Chai to offer education for offspring of construction

paintings of Lo Pan Temple is amongst the highest of Chinese

workers or other children in need. When LO Kam was Chairman

temples in Hong Kong Island. This temple gathered the wisdom

of Kwong Yuet Tong, he cooper ated with the Construction

of many builders because it houses their grandmaster, LO Pan.

Industry Council to initiate the “Young LO Pan Awards Contest”,

LO Pan was originally called GONGSHU Ban, who had lived in

aiming at rewarding young apprentices of excellence in the field

the State of Lu (now Shandong Province) in the late Spring and

of construction of Hong Kong in remembrance of the spirit of

Autumn Period. He was a craftsman who invented many tools

LO Pan.

such as inkpot, square, saw and axe. He was regarded as the

founder of the construction industry. On every thirteenth day of

the sixth lunar month, there would be a grand celebration held

for the birthday of LO Pan with sacrifices and wines as well as

dragon and lion dances. Many connected to building trades,

including individual workers to large companies, will pay their

tributes to the grandmaster of construction that day.

NEIGHBOURHOOD : LO PAN TEMPLE 91

F E N G L i a n d S O Ye u n g - p i u B i l l a r e t w o

ar chite c t s w ith gr e at inter e s t in his tor ic

buildings. Two years ago, they formed up as a

duo to conduct a research on Lo Pan Temple.

They made use of their free time to survey the

site, make interviews and draw blueprints. They

wish to represent the architectural features and

history of the Temple from a different angle,

and they hope that their research results could

be shared with the public in future.

THE MEMORY

“Lo Pan Temple is around 12 metres tall. There are many

decorations on the ridges and the sides, especially the ‘Five

Mountains Paying Tribute to Heaven’ gable walls which are rarely

seen in Hong Kong. This design might be adopted due to the

landscape. There was a vast altitudinal difference between Ching

Lin Terrance and To Li Terrace. This design allows people to see

the distinctive ridges and gable walls from the direction of To Li

Terrace behind the Temple.”

Having done a lot of surveys and research, Bill and Ah Li drew

accurate blueprints of the Temple. “We want to make a record of

Lo Pan Temple faithfully. How each item is placed in the temple is

closely related to the lifestyle of Uncle Fun (the manger) and the

Temple. As trivial as the wooden plank for fending off rodents,

the electric fans or the offerings, they are all vital components of

the space formation process and history.”

“Precision and order make the bedrock and cornerstone of

success.” Either the veteran construction workers or the “Young

Lo-pans”, they have all inherited and adhered to the teachings of

LO Pan. Through restless research and practices, they continue

to sweat for the foundation of society.

迴響深遠

鐘聲慈善社

CHUNG SING BENEVOLENT SOCIETY:

SAVED BY THE BELL

鄰里 — 鐘聲慈善社 95

盧焯成先生於一九六九年進入西環鐘聲學校任職，

曾任校長逾三十載，退休後成為鐘聲慈善社董事。

藍秀雲董事是西環人，六十年代就讀於鐘聲學校，

畢業後亦任職於此。鄧玉雲秘書於一九八八年進入

鐘聲慈善社服務至今。

鐘聲慈善社成立於一九一五年，由本港音樂及粵劇界四位前輩

陳紹棠、錢廣仁、李善卿、何澤民所創辦，原名為「鐘聲劇社」，回憶

取自唐代詩人杜甫「欲覺聞晨鐘，令人發深省」，冀以音樂劇藝

盧校長見證了鐘聲學校由西環搬入屯門。據他回憶，「五六十

教化世人，至一九一九年擴大組織，正名為「鐘聲慈善社」，

年代，鐘聲學校在西環頗為出名。七十年代之後，隨著出生率

以慈善為主，戲劇為輔。鐘聲慈善社早在一九二零年代已經借

下降，在名校林立的中西區，面對著生源不足的情況，學校只能

其他校舍開辦義學，亦曾發起多次籌賑募捐行動，以及籌辦西醫

縮減班數，最終於一九八九年至一九九一年期間遷入屯門。」

診療所贈醫施藥。

鐘聲慈善社辦事處亦從原西環學校頂層搬遷至觀塘和樂邨。

一九三二年，鐘聲社同人於西環尾海邊搭建竹棚創建鐘聲泳場，盧校長關懷師生，有教無類，與學校師生關係良好，亦深受教師

曾多次舉辦端午龍舟競渡比賽。六十年代，泳棚曾遭颱風幾度和學生的愛戴。

摧毀。七十年代後政府興建填海工程，拆卸泳棚。幾個鐘聲會

藍秀雲是土生土長的「鐘聲人」。她最難忘的是小學時曾參與

員向政府於摩星嶺申建泳棚，直至今日。而舊泳棚對面的山坡曾

鐘聲泳棚龍舟競渡活動。「以前鐘聲社每年都會舉辦龍舟競渡

是「鐘聲慈善社學校」，此校於一九五三年由上環原址遷入堅尼

活動，可謂是整個西環的大事，很有節日氣氛。每年都會在學校

地城泳場對面的空地，即今天巴士總站對面山坡，直至

對面搭建一個棚舉辦活動，並邀請港督來剪綵。我入選的當年，

一九八九年遷入屯門，鐘聲慈善社服務西環逾半個世紀。

接待了當時港督戴麟趾爵士，當時緊張的感覺至今還記得呢！」

轉眼半個世紀過去，她從唸書，到任職，再到今天退休後仍擔任

以前鐘聲社每年都會

董事，源於她對鐘聲的歸屬感。

「鐘聲」這兩個字是昔日西環人的集體回憶。無論是興學育才，

舉辦龍舟競渡活動籌款賑災，贈醫施藥，還是開設康樂設施，鐘聲數十年如一日

維繫社區，服務居民。

NEIGHBOURHOOD : CHUNG SING BENEVOLENT SOCIETY 97

CHUNG SING BENEVOLENT SOCIETY : LO Cheuk-shin g t au ght in Chun g S in g

SAVED BY THE BELL Benevolent School in Sai Wan since 1969. He

had been the headmaster for 30 years. After

Chung Sing Benevolent Society was founded in 1915 by four local

retirement, he became a board member of

musicians and Cantonese opera actors, CHAN Siu-tong, CHIN

Chung Sing Benevolent Society. Board member

Kwong-yan, LI Sin-hing and HO Chak-man. The organisation

LAM Sau-wan is a Kennedian. Having studied

was originally named “Chung Sing Opera Society” after a Tang

in Chung Sing Benevolent School in the 60s,

Poem of DU Fu, which went, “About to be awakened, I heard

she became a staff member of her alma mater.

the dawn bell, which brought out in me deep awareness.” The

Secretary TANG Yuk-wan has been serving the

founding members aimed at adopting music and opera as a

society since 1988.

means to preach on good deeds. They expanded the society

in 1919 and renamed it as “Chung Sing Benevolent Society”,

positioning themselves as a charity with a side business of

THE MEMORY

oper a per formance. A s early as in the 1920s, Chung Sing

Benevolent Society had already borrowed school sites to offer Principal LO witnessed the relocation of Chung Sing Benevolent

free educations. They also organised fundraising campaigns for School from Sai Wan to Tuen Mun. As he recalled, “In the 50s

disasters and established clinics of Western medicine to provide and 60s, Chung Sing Benevolent School was quite popular in Sai

affordable health services. Wan. After the 70s, the birth rate declined and the number of

school-age children available for enrollment was limited. Under

In 1932, The Society’s member built the Chung Sing Swimming

fierce competition with many prestigious schools in Central

Shed with bamboo by the coast at the edge of Sai Wan and held

Western District, Chung Sing Benevolent School had to reduce

several years of dragon boat races during Tuen Ng Festival.

classes. Eventually, between 1989 and 1991, we moved to Tuen

In the 60s, the swimming shed was destroyed by typhoons

Mun.” The office of Chung Sing Benevolent Society also moved

for a couple of times. In the 70s, the Government initiated the

from the top floor of Chung Sing Benevolent School in Sai Wan to

reclamation project and the swimming shed was cleared.

Wo Lok Estate in Kwun Tong. Mr. LO was a caring and dedicated

Several members of Chung Sing Benevolent Society applied to

principal. Not only he has fostered the good relationship amongst

rebuild the shed at Mount Davis, which remains until today. On

teachers and students, he is also favoured by everyone in school.

the slope opposite to the old shed was “Chung Sing Benevolent

School”. This school was moved from Sheung Wan to the ground

opposite to the Kennedy Town Swimming Shed in 1953, that is the

slope opposite to the nowadays bus terminus. In 1989, the school

moved once again to Tuen Mun. Chung Sing Benevolent Society

has been serving Sai Wan for over half a century.

NEIGHBOURHOOD : CHUNG SING BENEVOLENT SOCIETY 99

L AM Sau-wan was an “indigenous” member of Chung Sing

Benevolent Society. For her, the dragon boat racing at Chung

Sing Swimming Shed held when she was in primary was the most

unforgettable memory. “Our society would organise dragon boat

racing annually. It was a big event for the whole of Sai Wan and

it was very festive. Every year, a shed would be erected opposite

to the school for the race. The Governor would also be invited for

the ribbon-cutting ceremony. I had once received Governor Sir

David TRENCH. I still remember how nervous I was at that time!”

Half a century has passed. She stayed with Chung Sing from

study to work and to retirement as a board member only out of

her attachment to the Society.

“Chung Sing” is the collective memory of citizens in Sai Wan.

Whether it is education, disaster relief, health ser vice or

recreation, Chung Sing has stayed true to its mission to connect

and serve the community.

社區祭奠

西環盂蘭勝會

SAI WAN YU LAN FESTIVAL :

THE COMMUNITY MEMORIAL CEREMONY

鄰里 — 西環盂蘭勝會 103

說起盂蘭節的起源，佛道兩家各有不同傳說。道家稱之為西環盂蘭勝會自一九六四年成立，一九七二年正式

中元節，相傳農曆七月鬼門關開，無主孤魂到陽間接受施食；註冊，會址在吉席街的一幢大廈單位。最初成立時

佛家則有目連救母故事，後人在農曆七月超渡無主孤魂，會員多數為苦力，也有小販、商舖等。

並附薦先人。潮人盂蘭勝會於每年農曆七月舉行，為期

一個月。潮州盂蘭勝會除了宗教儀式外，會場還搭竹棚戲臺

上演神功戲，以及大型花牌紮作等傳統風俗。

回憶

西環盂蘭勝會的出現源於一次發生在一九六三年十一月廿四

據盂蘭會理事們回憶，以前西環一帶有許多潮州人居住，以摩星嶺、

日的爆炸事故。一輛停在堅尼地城新海傍近士美菲路的巨型

豬毛山一帶的木屋區最多，碼頭苦力有八九成都是潮州人。爆炸

貨車正在卸貨，裝載大量煙花喼紙的貨車突然發生爆炸，

事件發生後翌年，為了祭悼客死異鄉的罹難者，在潮籍碼頭

三名苦力被炸得血肉橫飛，慘不忍睹，當場死亡，附近行人也

苦力們發起下，一眾街坊響應捐款，首屆西環街坊盂蘭勝會在

被波及。這場最終造成五人死亡、六十一人受傷的慘劇，成為

士美菲路近海傍位置拉開序幕。最初只是做木偶戲，後來變為

了西環盂蘭會成立的原因。

神功戲。

不僅是宗教儀式，盂蘭勝會更凝聚了社區。除了出錢出力的苦

力群體，盂蘭勝會亦獲得了西環小販、米舖、雜貨舖、酒莊、

塑膠廠、咖啡室等商家的支持，附近批發市場也有人來幫忙，

被譽為「西環三寶」的新中華、卓記及祥香均有捐款。西環

盂蘭會在每年農曆七月初七至初九三日舉辦盂蘭勝會，曾選址

觀龍樓、聯邦新樓，於七十年代末搬至西寧街球場至今。這場

如今每年七月，

駭人聽聞的大爆炸發生至今已有五十五年，西環盂蘭勝會也已

舉辦了五十四屆。

老一輩理事們仍親力時至今日，居於西環的潮籍人士越來越少。木屋區清拆、碼頭

填海、機械化作業令咕哩這一勞動群體漸漸消失。再加上年輕

親為籌辦活動，一代拜神的人比較少，盂蘭組織面臨後繼無人的窘境。據西環

盂蘭會估計，舉辦一次盂蘭勝會大約需要資金七八十萬、人手

守護這一傳統風俗。

六七十人，比起募款，人手欠缺的問題更加嚴峻。如今每年七月，

老一輩理事們仍親力親為籌辦活動，守護這一傳統風俗。

NEIGHBOURHOOD : SAI WAN YU LAN FESTIVAL 105

Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival was held since an accidental explosion

happened on 24th November, 1963 when a large truck carrying

loads of firecracker caps exploded while unloading at New

Praya, Kennedy Town near Smithfield. Three coolies were

killed on spot with flesh and blood flying. Passers-by were also

embroiled. Eventually, this incident had caused five dead and 61

injured. The tragedy was the reason of the founding of Sai Wan

Yue Lan Association.

S ai Wan Yue L an A ssociation Limited w as

founded in 1964 and registered in 1972. The

association address is in a flat unit on Catchick

Street. The founding members were mostly

coolies along with some hawkers and shop

owners.

SAI WAN YU LAN FESTIVAL:

THE COMMUNITY MEMORIAL CEREMONY

THE MEMORY

Regarding the origin of Yu Lan Festival, there were two different

legends from the Buddhists and the Taoists. Taoists regard Yu As recalled by the board members of the Yue Lan Association,

Lan Festival as “Chung Yuen Festival”. Legend says the Hell’s there were many Chiuchownese residing in Sai Wan, mostly in

Gate will open every seventh lunar month and wandering ghosts the squatter areas on Mount Davis and Chu Mo Hill. Nearly 90%

will visit the mortal world to receive offerings. Buddhists have of those coolies working at the pier were from Chiu Chow. In the

the story of “Mu Lian saving his mother”. The descendants will year following the explosion, the coolies initiated a donation in

give blessings to the wandering ghosts and revert the good deeds memory of those who died in a foreign land, and many kaifong

to their ancestors. Yu Lan Ghost Festival of the Hong Kong Chiu responded. The first Sai Wan Kai Fong Yu Lan Festival was held

Chow Community is held every seventh lunar month. Apart from at New Praya near Smithfield. It was initially a puppetry show,

religious rituals, the Festival would also set up bamboo opera which later evolved into a god-appeasing opera.

shed to perform god-appeasing opera. There were also other

traditional customs such as erecting large flower plaques.

NEIGHBOURHOOD : SAI WAN YU LAN FESTIVAL 107

Yu Lan Festival was not only a religious ritual, but a means to

bond the community. Apart from the coolies who contributed

financially and physically, hawkers, rice shops, groceries, wine

cellars, plastic workshops and café also offered their support.

Others from the nearby wholesale markets came to help as

well. The Three Landmarks of Sai Wan, Sun Chung Wah, Cheuk

Kee and Cheung Heung also donated money. Sai Wan Yue Lan

Association organises the Yu Lan Festival from the seventh day

to the ninth day of seventh lunar month for three days annually.

It had employed venues such as Kwun Lung Lau and Luen Bong

Apartment. It has moved to the Recreational Ground in Sai Ning

Street in the end of 70s until today. This appalling explosion

happened 55 years ago, indicating that Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival

has been organised for 54 years.

Nowadays, the number of Chiu Chow descendants gradually

diminished in Sai Wan. The squatter areas were cleared, the

pier was reclaimed, the coolies were replaced by machines.

In addition to the fact that few younger people still follow the

traditional belief, the Yue Lan Association is now facing difficulty

of having no successor. A s estimated by Sai Wan Yue Lan

Association Limited, they need around 700,000 to 800,000 dollars

as well as a manpower of 60 to 70 persons in order to organise

the Yu Lan Festival once. Having enough hands is a bigger

problem than finance. In every seventh lunar month, the older

board members will insist to organise the event personally and

continue to safeguard this traditional custom.

老有所屬

長者服務中心

ELDERLY SERVICE CENTRES :

SENSE OF BELONGING FOR OLDER ADULTS

鄰里 — 長者服務中心 111

林淑滿生於上世紀三十年代，一九五九年後一直

居於西環。樂衷參與社區活動的她經常活躍於西環

不同的長者中心。

隨著人口老化，香港六十五歲或以上的人口從一九六零年代回憶

約九萬人，增長到今天逾一百一十萬人。而在堅尼地城地區，

林淑滿剛搬入堅尼地城西環邨時二十餘歲，如今已屆耄耋

據二零一六年統計數據，六十五歲或以上的長者佔全區人口比例

之齡。她自五十八歲起開始接觸西環的長者服務，附近的

約為 17.1%，高於全港平均水平 15.9%。長者服務需求日漸增加，

女青年會便是她第一個參與的機構。「我喜歡去不同的中心

各機構紛紛在西環開展可供長者活動的服務中心，例如聖路加

參加活動和做義工，跟老友記們聊天。每個中心的活動都不同，

福群會長者鄰舍中心、女青年會西環松柏中心、雅研社鄰里康齡

例如摩星嶺街坊福利會會舉辦興趣班活動；西環街坊會多數是

中心、西環街坊福利會譚伯鴻老人中心等，也有明愛莫張瑞勤

捐錢和派發物資；還有明愛和雅研社，我也經常參加。不過最多

社區中心和摩星嶺街坊福利會。這些中心不僅是老友記們發揮

的還是去聖路加中心。聖路加堂歷史悠久，教友們見到西環服務

餘熱、參與活動的好去處，也是他們與老街坊鄰里們敘舊，重溫

需要便開設了中心，最初是在賽馬會診所旁邊的小白屋。雖然我

社區生活的聚腳點。

現在八十多歲，腿腳不方便，但都會盡量參加各個中心的活動。」

林淑滿對於西環的長者中心如數家珍，源自於她對這個社區的

歸屬和依戀。

我喜歡去不同的中心

參加活動和做義工，

跟老友記們聊天。

鄰里 — 長者服務中心 113

陳閏儀是西環一間長者中心的註冊社工，自小成長

於堅尼地城的她亦為這個社區的長者提供服務，

見證了社區鄰里的變化。

回憶

作為長者服務提供者的陳閏儀，自小在堅尼地城長大。陳閏儀

小時候的街坊鄰居，現在部分成為了她的服務對象。「這種感

覺很奇妙，有些會員我小時候都見過，當時他們正值中年，現在

雖然年紀大了，甚至他們未必還記得我，但是感覺卻依舊很

熟悉。」陳姑娘的工作主要是幫區內有需要的長者申請服務，

和舉辦各類活動。據陳姑娘回憶，以前西環公共屋邨內的居民

年齡分佈可謂長中青幼比較均勻，但現在卻大部分都是長者。

不同中心的活動越來越多元化，以適應長者的需求。「這個社

區的人很長情，這是累積出來的。就算以前的街坊搬到了新界

居住，他們寧願回來西環的中心參加活動，因為知道老友們肯定

在這裡。」

人生匆匆數十年，上世紀中葉出生的街坊們伴隨著堅尼地城

渡過了半個世紀，他們與這區的感情可謂歷久彌堅。許多長者不

願搬離西環，更多長者即使遷至他區，都會趁地鐵開通之後搭

「兩蚊車」回來參加中心活動，全是出於他們對於社區的熱愛和

歸屬感。

NEIGHBOURHOOD : ELDERLY SERVICE CENTRES 115

ELDERLY SERVICE CENTRES : L AM Shuk-moon was born in the 30s of the

SENSE OF BELONGING FOR OLDER ADULTS last centur y. She has been living in Sai Wan

since 1959. Being enthusiastic in community

As population ages, the number of citizens who are 65 years old

activities, she was a frequent visitor to various

or above increases from just 90 000 in the 1960s to 1 100 000

elderly centres in the community.

today. In Kennedy Town, the ratio of elderly to the population of

the area was roughly 17.1% according to the statistics in 2016.

It was higher than the average of all of Hong Kong at 15.9%.

THE MEMORY

The needs for elderly ser vices gradually increase, and many

organisations started their elderly service centres in Sai Wan, L AM Shuk-moon was in her 20s when she moved in Sai Wan

such as HKSKH St. Luke’s Settlement Neighbourhood Elderly Estate, Kennedy Town. She has now entered her 80s. Since 58

Centre, YWCA Sai Wan Social Centre for the Elderly, NAAC Nga years old, she was introduced to the elderly services in Sai Wan.

Yin Association Neighbourhood Elderly Centre, Kennedy Town The nearby YWCA was the first organisation she joined. “I like to

Kai-fong Welfare Association Tam Pak Hung Social Centre for join the activities of different elderly centres and to contribute

the Elderly, Caritas Mok Cheung Sui Kun Community Centre and as a volunteer, as I can chat with other elderly. The activities of

Mount Davis Kai-fong Welfare Association, etc. These centres each centre have their own merits. For examples, Mount Davis

not only offer places for elderly to participate in various activities Kai-fong Welfare Association organises interest groups, while

and to contribute their skills, experiences and talents, they also Kennedy Town Kai-fong Welfare Association focuses on fund-

provide gathering points for them to meet with other kaifong and raising and aids. Caritas and NA AC were also centres I often

relive their old community lives. visit. Still, St. Luke’s Settlement was my most frequented elderly

centre. St. Luke’s Settlement had a long history. The believers

started the elderly centre when they saw the service gap in Sai

Wan. It began as a small white building next to the HKJC clinic.

Although I am already over 80 years old with weakening legs,

I would still try my best to participate in the activities offered by

various centres.” LAM’s profound knowledge in elderly centres

in Sai Wan is originated from her sense of belonging to the

community.

NEIGHBOURHOOD : ELDERLY SERVICE CENTRES 117

CHAN Yun-yee is a registered social worker in Time flies. Kaifong born in the 50s of the century has aged with

an elderly service centre in Sai Wan. Born and Kennedy Town for over five decades. They have formed a tight

raised in Kennedy Town, she provided services bond with the community. Many elderly are not willing to move

to the elderly in the community after she has away from Sai Wan. Even they have moved to another district,

grown up. She has witnessed the evolvement of they would make good use of the “2-dollar Fare Concession

her neighbourhood. scheme” to return to the elderly centre in Kennedy Town just

for the activities. They do so out of their strong attachment and

sense of belonging to the community.

THE MEMORY

CHAN Yun-yee was an “indigenous” elderly service provider born

and raised in Kennedy Town. Some of her neighbours and kaifong

of her younger years have now become her service users. “This

is a wonderful feeling. I have acquainted some of the centre

members when I was young and they were at their middle-age.

They are now elderly. Some of them may not remember me, but

they still give me a familiar feeling.” The main duties of Yun-yee

are to assist elderly in the district to apply for services as well

as to organise various kinds of activity. As recalled by CHAN,

the age distribution in public housing estate in the past Sai Wan

was relative even from toddlers to elderly. However, elderly

at present become the majority. Activities in different elderly

centres also diversify to adapt to the needs of the growing aging

population. “The members of this community are very nostalgic.

This is something which requires accumulation. Even some of the

kaifong have already moved to the New Territories, they would

prefer joining events in an elderly centre in Sai Wan, as they know

that they will find their friends here.”

設施

十九世紀末至二十世紀八十年代以前，堅尼地城曾是港島區

FACILITIES

副食品批發市場，俗稱「九大欄」，包括牛欄、豬欄、雞欄、鴨欄、

鵝欄、魚欄、蝦欄、菜欄、果欄。最早落成的是士美菲路舊屠場、

豬羊欄和牛房，後來雞鴨欄、魚市場和蔬菜市場相繼投入運作。

隨著六十年代填海工程竣工，垃圾焚化爐亦選址西環。基本上，

堅尼地城由士美菲路、科士街至加多近街海旁一帶，在二十

世紀都充斥著厭惡性設施。而隨著社區發展，居民漸多，街坊

們向政府部門反映意見，直至八九十年代將這些厭惡性設施

遷離或清拆。隨著一九九零年代填海，堅尼地城的公園和休憩

空間越來越多，曾經的「擸𢶍灣」已不再。

From the end of the 19th Century to the 80s of the 20th Century,

Kennedy Town ser ved as the wholesale food market for all

citizens in Hong Kong Island. There were “The Nine Laan”

wholesaling cattle, pig, chicken, duck, goose, fish, shrimp,

vegetable and fruit. The earliest of them were the old Smithfield

Slaughterhouse, pig and sheep depot and cattle depot. Later,

the poultry pen and the fish market were put into service. After

the reclamation, the waste incinerator plant was also built in Sai

Wan. Basically, in the 20th Century, nuisance facilities were all

built in the vicinity of Smithfield, along Forbes Street to Cadogan

Street and at the Praya. As the community developed and the

population increased, kaifong started to reflect opinions to the

Government and these offensive facilities were either torn down

or moved away in the 80s and the 90s. Further reclamation was

carried out in the 1990s. There were more parks and recreation

spaces in Kennedy Town. It was no longer the “dirty corner”

it used to be.

牛糞變鮮花

牛房屠房

CATTLE DEPOT AND SLAUGHTERHOUSE:

BUILDING ATOP THE DUNGHILL

設施 — 牛房屠房 123

灰色的大水牛們走得

婉貞於二十世紀五十年代中出生，在堅尼地城長大，

當時住在蒲飛路匯豐銀行華人職員宿舍，在呂明才

小學讀書，士美菲路牛房和屠房是她每天上學和

很慢，仿佛知道自己即將放學的必經之地。

步入刑場。

早在十九世紀，港島東西各有一屠房，直至一八七四年東區回憶

發展，隨即將東區屠房與西區屠房合併。一八九四年左右，

「我印象最深的除了牛，就數牛夫了。」據婉貞回憶，每天清晨

位於士美菲路附近的屠場和豬羊欄竣工，並展開運作。而位於

四五時左右，天矇矇亮，在士美菲路牛房門口，已有許多牛夫

吉席街以西、提供豬隻上落的木碼頭亦在一八九七年完成。

指揮泊車。一輛輛滿載牛隻的大貨車停在士美菲路，牛夫們

直至二十世紀六十年代，隨著香港人口增加，堅尼地城發展，

身穿唐裝褲，手拿一支棍，拍打牛背趕入牛房。「這些牛夫們

原屠場漸漸不敷應用，政府於一九六八年在加多近街北面

年紀偏長，通常都是六十以上，有些甚至有九十歲。不用工作的

填海區興建了更大規模的現代化屠房，無論在規模上、管理上、

時候，這些老漢們便靠在牛房中央的圓形水池邊打盹兒，或是在

屠宰技術上都有所改進，直至二十世紀末停止運作。

路邊墻角下看報紙。」

西環牛房原是屠房牲口欄的一部分，從一九八四年建成後一直

有時，婉貞也見過牛群從牛房被人拉到一街相隔的屠房的

運作逾百年，到一九八六年關閉。牛房關閉後，由於堅尼地城

場景。「灰色的大水牛們走得很慢，仿佛知道自己即將步入刑場，

地區內缺乏休憩場地，區議會撥款將牛房原址在未規劃永久

在拉扯下緩慢前行，見到這個場面覺得很淒涼。」另一邊的

發展之前，改建為士美菲路臨時公園，並保留一部分牛房

屠房門口，已經有屠夫等待著它們。屠夫通常上身赤裸，下身

古舊瓦頂，作休憩公園之遮蔭部分。一九九三年，政府正式

穿著短褲，腰間插了一把刀，腳踩水靴，滿身都是屠宰動物的血。

收回土地興建市政大樓。

「他們以殺生為業，是為了那麼多人的肚腹，要感謝他們。」婉貞

早期西環屠房和牛房供應著全港大部分肉類產品。據一九語氣中充滿敬意。

二二年報紙報導，全年西環牛房共有牛隻 46 237 頭，佔全港

隨著厭惡性設施逐一拆卸，曾經載滿牛糞的地方後來開遍鮮花，

牛隻 87%，豬隻 292 184 頭，羊隻 30 732 頭，供應全港或出口

如今又搖身一變成為了人頭攢動的地鐵站出入口和市政大廈，

海外。而報紙也經常報導牛隻發狂衝撞路人、或害怕逃跑跳入

再也找不到昔日的線索。

海水中的新聞。

FACILITIES : CATTLE DEPOT AND SLAUGHTERHOUSE 125

CATTLE DEPOT AND SLAUGHTERHOUSE:

BUILDING ATOP THE DUNGHILL

As early as the 19th Century, there was each a slaughterhouse In the earlier years, most of the meat products were processed

on the eastern and western side of Hong Kong Island. When in the slaughterhouse in Sai Wan. According to a news report in

the Eastern District began its development in 1874, the Eastern 1922, the annual stock of Kennedy Town Cattle Depot was 46 247,

Slaughterhouse merged with its western counterpart. In around contributing 87% of the overall stock in Hong Kong. There were

1894, the slaughterhouse as well as the sheep and pig depot also 292 184 pigs and 30 732 goats. These livestock supplied

were built near Smithfield and star ted operation. A wooden domestically or exported overseas. Newspapers also covered

pier was also constructed west of Catchick Street to enable the stories of enraged cattle ramming people or frightened cattle

unloading of pigs. It was until the 60s of the 20th Century that jumping into the sea.

the old slaughterhouse could not meet the needs of the growing

Hong Kong population as well as the thriving Kennedy Town.

The Government hence installed a modern abattoir of a larger

scale on the reclaimed land north of Cadogan Street. The new

establishment had improved in terms of scale, management and

slaughtering technology. It discontinued its service by the end of

the 20th Century.

Sai Wan Cattle Depot used to be a part of the livestock pen of

the slaughterhouse. It operated for over a hundred years since

1894 until its closure in 1986. After the depot was shut down, the

District Council, in view of the shortage of recreational facilities

in the vicinity of Kennedy Town, funded to convert the site into

Smithfield Temporary Park before deciding on its permanent

land use. Part of the old tiled roof of the depot was preserved to

provide cover for the sitting-out area. In 1993, the Government

officially resumed the land for the construction of Smithfield

Municipal Services Building.

FACILITIES : CATTLE DEPOT AND SLAUGHTERHOUSE 127

Yuen-ching was born in the mid-20th Century These offensive facilities were demolished one by one, and the

and was raised in Kennedy Town. She used dunghills became a flowery park. However, the garden had now

to live in the Staff Quarters for Chinese Staff been transformed into a busy MTR exit and a Municipal Services

of HSBC and studied in SKH Lui Ming Choi Building. There is not a single trace left to hint towards the

Memorial Primar y School. The Cattle Depot old days.

and the slaughterhouse were in-between Yuen-

ching’s home and her school.

THE MEMORY

“My deepest impression was the cattle, then, the herders,”

recalled Yuen-ching. At 4 to 5 in the morning when sunbroke,

there were already many cattle-keepers at the gate of the Cattle

Depot on Smithfield directing the parking of vehicles. Big trucks

full-loaded with cattle stopped in Smithfield. Dressed in Chinese

style trousers, the herders navigated the trains of cattle into

the depot by patting on the animals’ back with a stick. “These

herders were all older men, mostly over 60 years old. Some

were even at their 90s. When these old men rested, they usually

took a nap by the round pool in the centre of the depot or read a

newspaper at the corner by the roadside.”

Sometimes, Yuen-ching witnessed the herds of cattle being

led into the slaughterhouse opposite the street. “Those grey

buffaloes strode slowly. Seemed to know that they were about

to meet their ends, they were pulled to advance reluctantly.

This scene would move anyone to tears.” On the other side of the

road, the butchers were already waiting for them. Being topless,

wearing shorts, carrying a cleaver at waist and standing in rain

boots, these butchers were spotted with the blood of cattle.

“These butchers took lives to feed us. We were much indebted to

them,” lamented Yuen-ching with respect.

雞毛鴨血一條街

雞鴨欄

POULTRY LAAN:

THE STREET OF FEATHERS

設施 — 雞鴨欄 131

住在雞欄附近，我經常

謝寶昕於上世紀五十年代中出生，於堅尼地城

旗昌街（今聯邦新樓範圍）的唐樓居住。當時謝父從

事雞鴨欄的運輸判頭工作，負責處理街市的訂單和

從家裡窗口往外望，送貨。旗昌街因興建聯邦新樓而清拆後，寶昕曾在

吉席街、荷蘭街居住過，至七十年代搬離堅尼地城。

看他們開工時忙碌的

身影，也不時向父親招手。

回憶

凌晨四五點，雞鴨欄就已經甦醒，搬運、裝車、送貨，整條科士街

二十世紀初至一九八零年代之前，科士街與爹核士街交界的

與爹核士街交界充斥著雞鴨的叫聲和氣味。「住在雞欄附近，

位置曾經約有十幾間雞鴨欄，為香港島不同地區的街市提供

我經常從家裡窗口往外望，看他們開工時忙碌的身影，也不時向

活禽批發。在居民的印象中，雞鴨欄是西環「九大欄」中最不

父親招手。這裡給人印象是很嘈、很臭，但我住慣了就不覺得，

受歡迎的地方。由於太過接近民居，雞鴨欄的氣味、噪音和造

反而有一份莫名的親切感。對有些小朋友亦有一個好處，就是

成的交通問題給許多西環居民留下了深刻印象。雞鴨欄每天都

有自然的鬧鐘，清早上學一定不會遲到了！」不過這個鬧哄哄的

要存放一定數量的雞鴨以應對街市零售商和小販的需求，而這

景象會在中午時分戛然而止。「當雞鴨們被陸續送往街市後，便會

些雞鴨糞便的氣味對附近環境造成很大的影響。為了配合街市

有人清理街道，一到中午，整條街就乾乾淨淨的了。」日復一日，

及小販的售賣時間，往往批發市場清早就要開工，凌晨四時左

整個早上雞飛鴨跳的市場，便是寶昕童年時印象最深的街景。

右起，數以千計的雞鴨發出的聲浪對於附近的居民造成不少的

滋擾。除此之外，雞鴨欄所在的科士街距離雞鴨上落碼頭有上世紀五六十年代的生活環境比較艱苦，「很多人是過節才有

一段距離，一籠籠的雞鴨需用木頭車由碼頭穿過吉席街、雞吃，但我們時常都有雞吃！」據寶昕回憶，由於父親做雞欄的

卑路乍街運到科士街，甚至有商販曾拿著竹枝從碼頭一路運輸，雞鴨用貨船送到時，若有些暈船浪狀態不佳的，商販們

趕鵝到雞欄，造成了交通阻塞。便會叫廚師立即宰殺了，煮宵夜慰勞夥計，也分給負責運輸的

父親帶回家與家人分享。寶昕依稀記得，「以前時常都有鮮甜的

為了整治街道衛生與交通環境，雞鴨欄於一九八七年搬至西環

雞粥宵夜，還有雞肉、雞什炒粉麵呢！」現在憶想起來，她依舊

填海區新興建的西區臨時家禽批發市場，後於九十年代正式遷

回味無窮。

往西區副食品批發市場。雞鴨欄清拆後，原址被闢作小巴總站，

騰出了許多道路空間。

FACILITIES : POULTRY LAAN 133

POULTRY LAAN : THE STREET OF FEATHERS TSE Po-yan was born in the 50s of the last

centur y and lived in a tonglau unit at Kee

Between the early 20th Centur y and 1980s, there were once

Cheong Street (the vicinity of current Luen Bong

a dozen of poultry laan (i.e. market) at the junction of Forbes

Apartement). TSE’s father was the logistic sub-

Street and Davis Street. They offered wholesaling of poultry for

contractor of poultry laan and was responsible

markets in different districts in Hong Kong Island. Amongst the

for the ordering and delivery of the wet market.

“Nine Laan Markets” in Sai Wan, the poultry laan was the most

After Kee Cheong Street was redeveloped due

unpopular. As they were so close to the residential flats, the

to the construction of Luen Bong Apartment,

smell and noise of the pens, in addition to the traffic congestion

Po-yan lived in Catchick Street and Holland

they brought about, were unforgettable for residents of Sai Wan.

Street. It was until the 70s that she moved away

Poultry laan had to stock up every day so as to meet the demands

from Kennedy Town.

of retailers and hawkers. The odour of the excrement of poultry

had greatly affected the surrounding environment. To cope

with the opening time of retail markets and hawker stalls, the

THE MEMORY

wholesale market had to start as early as 4:00 a.m. The clucks

and quacks from the chickens and ducks had caused nuisance to At 4 to 5 a.m., the poultry pens were already wide awake. Moving,

the nearby kaifong . Furthermore, as the poultry pens on Forbes loading and delivering, the junction of Forbes Street and Davis

Street were quite a distance away from the pier, the birds, after Street was filled with the noise and smell of birds. “I lived next to

being unloaded onshore, had to be transported in wooden carts the chicken pens. I often looked down to the busy streets from

to the laan through Catchick Street and Belcher’s Street. Some windows and waved at my father. My impression of this place

hawkers even drove the geese with a stick along the road all the was that it was noisy and stinky. Yet, I had lived long enough to

way from the pier, causing traffic jams. get used to it and developed an inexplicable nostalgia over the

place. Such an environment had its own merit for children – they

In order to improve the hygiene and traffic of the streets, the

will not be late for school as there were always morning calls!”

poultry laan were migrated to the newly built Western Temporary

Still, such a bustling atmosphere would die down completely

Wholesale Poultry Market at the Western Reclamation in 1987.

by noon. “When the fowls were delivered to the markets, there

Eventually they resettled at Western Wholesale Food Market.

would be sweepers cleaning up the area. By noon, the streets

After the poultry pens were relocated, the site was redeveloped

would become clean again.” Day after day, the exciting poultry

into a minibus terminus and the road became more spacious.

markets had been the most memorable day-to-day scene of

Po-yan’s childhood.

FACILITIES : POULTRY LAAN 135

The life was tough between the 1950s and 60s, “Many could

only afford chicken during festivals, but we had chicken for

meals often!” As recalled by Po-yan, poultr y dealers would

instruct their cooks to prepare the fowls immediately if they

found them unwell after the sea voyage. The cooked food would

then be distributed to the workers as supper. Since Po-yan’s

father worked for the logistic of poultry laan , he would be gifted

some chicken to take home and shared with the family. Po-yan

somehow remembered, “I often had sweet chicken congee for

supper. There were also fried noodles with chicken or chicken

giblets!” The taste of the old days was still mouth-watering

for her.

污染還是污名

焚化爐

INCINERATOR:

BLACKENING OR BLACKENED?

設施 — 焚化爐 139

堅尼地城焚化爐建於

八十年代區議會空氣污染調查結果，發現焚化爐所排出的

毒氣，對區內居民的健康有所影響，尤其是七歲以下兒童。

六十年代，當時塑膠

後來，政府逐步以垃圾堆填來取代焚化，希望減少空氣污染。

直至將軍澳及新界東北的堆填區開始使用後，堅尼地城焚化爐

於一九九三年停用，並於二零零七年開始拆卸。

產品並未十分普及，

人們大部分的生活 Ir. Sunny NG 曾於一九八七年任見習工程師期間，

至堅尼地城焚化爐工作，研究並對比了當時全港

垃圾均為有機物。

四座焚化爐，亦對焚化和堆填兩種垃圾處理方式

的利弊進行比較。

一九六三年，全港每日所產生的垃圾總數為一千三百噸。

為了減少垃圾處理對環境的污染，政府決定逐漸取消於醉酒灣回憶

傾棄垃圾方式，採用焚化垃圾新方法，從英國採購焚化爐分別

堅尼地城焚化爐之所以為人詬病，除了難以忍受的氣味外，

設於西環尾和荔枝角。第一座焚化爐於一九六六年在堅尼

還有焚化後散播於空氣中的灰燼。Ir. Sunny NG 對此提出了他

地城新填地正式展開運作。堅尼地城焚化爐初由四座焚化爐

的看法：「堅尼地城焚化爐建於六十年代，當時區內人口不多，

組成，每爐每日可焚燒二百五十噸垃圾，設有兩支煙囪，後各加

焚化爐兩支高約六十幾層的煙囪理應不會對區內大部分的唐樓、

一座爐和一支煙囪。設計焚化爐之初，已考慮到可以將焚化垃

木屋區居民造成影響。而位於焚化爐旁的堅尼地城屠房亦設有

圾時所產生的熱力轉化為電力供應。故此，位於堅尼地城焚化

一座較矮的機動焚化爐用來焚化牲口屍體及不符合健康水準的

爐旁的堅尼地城屠房，其大部分熱水和鍋爐用電全依賴焚化爐

肉食。由於動物屍體較難燃燒，故這座焚化爐加入了油渣助燃，

提供。

難免產生大量煙塵。另外，垃圾車運輸垃圾途中所散發出難聞

隨著區內人口增加，堅尼地城焚化爐為居民詬病，認為其對的味道，隨風向吹至附近民居，影響民生。

環境和空氣造成莫大的污染。七八十年代，政府為焚化爐加裝

各種過濾裝置，例如煙煤清潔器、靜電塵埃沉澱器等，以減少

微粒排放。

設施 — 焚化爐 141

一九八七年撰寫的工作日誌中，他已比較和總結了垃圾焚化和

堆填的利弊，他認為先焚化，後堆填，能使堆填的效率達到最高。

「首先，當垃圾進行焚燒之後，剩餘的體積僅為原本的二十分

之一，不僅降低運輸成本，更能延長堆填區使用期限；其次，焚燒

的熱量可以產生電力，省卻供電開支；此外，焚化可以先行將有

機物和垃圾分解，大大減少降解後產生的沼氣對土地和水質的

污染；唯獨是，焚化爐排放的微粒、有毒氣體會對人體、牲畜和

植物的健康造成影響。

至於焚化產生有毒氣體二噁英，據他說，「堅尼地城焚化爐建

於六十年代，當時塑膠產品並未十分普及，人們大部分的生活

垃圾均為有機物。二噁英是在燃燒塑膠垃圾時，由於焚燒溫度

不夠高，產生的危害人體健康的物質。若溫度足夠高，便能將

其分解。將來的技術可以實現以高溫分解有害物質，垃圾焚燒

之後的殘渣更可以用作修築公路的材料、蒸汽產生電力、廢熱

轉化為生活熱水、便可以將浪費和污染減至最低。

焚化爐曾被西環居民評為環境黑點之最，但今天又重新落實

使用焚化爐。如何減少塑膠垃圾，從源頭減廢，養成環保的生活

方式，值得每個人反思。

FACILITIES : INCINERATOR 143

INCINERATOR: BLACKENING OR BLACKENED? Ir. Sunny NG was an engineer graduate who

worked at the Kennedy Town Incineration Plant

In 1963, the daily refuse produced in Hong Kong was 1300 tonnes.

in 1987. He had researched all four incineration

In order to reduce the pollution to environment caused by waste

plants in Hong Kong as well as compared the

processing, the Government decided to gradually phase out

pros and cons between the waste processing

the practice of dumping waste at Gin Drinker’s Bay Landfill,

solutions of incineration and landfilling.

and adopted the new method of refuse incineration. The new

incinerators were impor ted from Britain and were installed

at the edge of Sai Wan and in Lai Chi Kok. The first incinerator

THE MEMORY

started its operation in 1966 at the new reclamation area in

Kennedy Town. The biggest complaint towards the incinerators of Kennedy

Town was the unbearable odour coupled with the flying ashes

The Kennedy Town Incineration Plant was a complex of four

in the air. Ir. Sunny NG has formed his own opinion, “Kennedy

incinerators with two chimneys initially. Each incinerator had

Town Incineration Plant was built in the 60s. At that time, the

a daily waste processing capacity of 250 tonnes. Later, another

population was still small and the two chimneys of 60-storey

set of incinerator and chimney was added. At the design stage,

high should not be a problem for most of the residents living in

it was already considered that the heat from combustion could

tonglau and squatter areas. The adjacent Kennedy Town Abattoir

be recovered for generating electricity. For such reason, the

had also a shorter mobile incinerator for burning corpses of

neighbouring Kennedy Town Abattoir relied on the electricity

livestock as well as slaughter waste. As animal corpses were

supplied by the incinerators to drive the boilers for water heating.

hard to light up, this incinerator added diesel to aid ignition and

As the population grew, the Kennedy Town Incineration Plant thus inevitably produced much dust and smoke. Furthermore,

was being complained by nearby residents for causing great refuse collection vehicles spreaded unpleasant smell when

pollution to the environment and the air. In the 70s and 80s, transporting garbage, which was blown with the wind towards

the Government installed various filters for the incinerators, the residence and caused nuisances.”

such as fume cleaner and electrostatic precipitator, so as to

In a logbook he inputted in 1987, NG compared and summarised

limit the emission of solid particulate matters. According to

the advantages and adversities of both solutions of incineration

the air pollution survey conducted by the District Council in the

and landfilling. He considered that pre-processing the rubbish

80s, it was discovered that the noxious gases emitted by the

in a furnace before dumping them is the most efficient way of

incinerator plant had caused health issues to the residents in

utilising a landfill. “Firstly, after the waste is being incinerated,

the area, especially children under seven. Later, the Government

the remain would only be 1/20 of its original size. It not only

replaced incineration by sanitary landfill in hope of reducing air

minimises the transportation cost, but also elongates the life

pollution. It was until Tseung Kwan O Landfill and North East

of landfill. Secondly, the heat from combustion can be used for

New Territories Landfill were put into service that Kennedy Town

generating electricity and thus can save electricity expenses.

Incineration Plant was disused in 1993 and demolished in 2007.

Moreover, incineration can decompose organic substances in

FACILITIES : INCINERATOR 145

refuse, which greatly reduces the land and water pollutions

caused by landfill gas produced during the degradation process.

However, the emissions from incinerators such as particles

and noxious gases would impact the health of people, animals

and plants.”

As for the dioxin produced during incineration, Sunny has an

explanation, “Kennedy Town Incineration Plant was built in the

60s when plastic products were not yet popular. Most of the

household waste generated was organic. Dioxin is a product

of combustion of plastic waste at a low temperature, which is

harmful to human health. If the temperature of combustion is

high enough, it can be decomposed. It is expected that future

technology could enable decomposition of toxic matters at an

ultra-high temperature. The remains after combustion could

become economical construction materials for building roads,

the steam could produce electricity and the heat could boil hot

water. These ways could help minimise waste and pollution.”

T he inciner ator s were once considered the bl ackest

environmental black spot of Kennedy Town by the residents, but

now the Hong Kong Government is under active consideration

of readopting the waste solution of incineration. Minimising

plastic waste, reducing waste at source and establishing an

environmentally friendly lifestyle are topics which require our

immediate attention.

讓社區呼吸

公園

PARK:

LET THE COMMUNITY BREATH

設施 — 公園 149

小時候，

現任長春社保育經理的許淑君成長於八九十年代

的堅尼地城，至今仍在區內居住。她見證了西環的

公園和休憩設施由少變多，社區環境逐步改善。

堅尼地城沒有公園。

回憶

城市設計處於一九八零年代為堅尼地城訂立第一份分區計劃「小時候，堅尼地城沒有公園。」住在荷蘭街附近的淑君依稀

大綱時，指出本區最大問題之一是缺乏休憩用地，並建議在記得，八十年代堅尼地城幾乎沒有什麼有規模的公園，只一些

加多近街、爹核士街、觀龍樓附近及將填海區部分土地作公園、小型遊樂設施：「從小就很喜歡去公園玩，但西環的選擇有限。

花園等休憩用地。在八十年代之前，由於屠房、雞鴨欄、菜欄、只有卑路乍街舊消防局旁的山坡，大樹下有個石滑梯，還有加惠

焚化爐和工廠集中，堅尼地城的空氣污染和噪音污染都嚴重民道旁的小公園。」後隨城市發展，填海得來的卑路乍灣公園

影響到居民的生活。當時區內只有零星數個遊樂場或球場，或和加多近街公園成為街坊的休憩勝地。公園的增加讓堅尼地城

地處偏僻，或管理欠佳，康樂設施不敷應用。政府和民間都意綠化也隨之變多。「卑路乍灣公園種植了許多不同的樹種，例如

識到，增闢休憩園地對區內居民生活質素的迫切性和重要性。黃槿、木麻黃、鳳凰木、榕樹、棕櫚、洋紫荊等等。其中屬海邊

植物的木麻黃在其他公園中比較少見，它比較耐旱，可能是考慮

隨著九十年代填海工程，卑路乍灣公園於一九九九年落成於

到公園地處海邊。現在放眼望去，樹冠相連，非常茂密。加多近街

堅尼地城海旁新填海區，初時為臨時公園，二零零二年之後

臨時公園雖較小，但環境清幽，亦是不少街坊心儀之地。」

成為永久公園。加多近街臨時花園是繼卑路乍灣公園後區內

第二大公園。因其原址為屠房和焚化爐，土地埋藏污染物，有多年生態保育工作經驗的許淑君坦言，除公園外，堅尼地城

發展局曾計劃清拆此地並興建私人住宅，引起居民反對後，的樹仍不算多。「相較而言，西營盤和半山常見大榕樹，而堅尼

決定維持作休憩用地。地城則很少，可見在發展時並未有規劃種樹的空間。」目前堅尼

地城的古樹名木只有位於科士街樹牆、科士街臨時遊樂場、巴士

總站和加惠民道花園共七棵細葉榕。相較於一些新市鎮，西環

空間有限，故此更要注重對現有樹木的保育工作。「提倡市民多

欣賞和了解樹木，關注環境，是參與保育工作的第一步。」

FACILITIES : PARK 151

PARK: LET THE COMMUNITY BREATH Kami HUI, currently working as Conservation

Manager in The Conser vanc y A ssociation,

Town Planning Division under Lands Department pointed out

was raised in Kennedy Town between the 80s

that the lacking of recreational lands was amongst the biggest

and 90s. She still lives in the area and has

problems for the area when drafting the first Kennedy Town

witnessed the increasing number of parks and

Outline Zoning Plan in the 1980s. Hence, it was recommended

recreational facilities in Sai Wan as well as the

that recreational lands such as parks and gardens would be

improvement of community environment.

reserved at Cadogan Street, Davis Street, the vicinity of Kwun

Lung Lau and parts of the reclaimed area. Before the 80s, due

to the extensive presence of slaughterhouse, poultr y pens,

THE MEMORY

vegetable market, incinerators and factories, the air and noise

pollutions had caused great nuisances for residents of Kennedy “When I was young, there was no park in Kennedy Town.” Having

Town. There were only few playgrounds and basketball courts lived nearby Holland Street, Kami somewhat remembered that

at that time. They were either remote or poorly managed. there was nearly no sizable park in Kennedy Town in the 80s but

Recreational facilities were also insufficient in the area. Both a few small playgrounds. “I love to visit the park since I was a

the Government and the community realized the importance kid, yet there were not many options in Sai Wan. There were only

and urgency of increasing recreational lands for promoting the a slope next to the old Fire Station on Belcher’s Street, a stone

quality of life amongst residents of Kennedy Town. slide under the tree, and a small garden next to Ka Wai Man

Road.” As the town develops, Belcher Bay Park and Cadogan

As the reclamation project commenced in the 90s, Belcher Bay

Street Garden have become the favourite recreational space

Park was built in 1999 at the new reclamation area adjacent to

for kaifong . The greenery of Kennedy Town improves along with

New Praya, Kennedy Town. It was once a temporary park, and

the increasing number of parks. “Belcher Bay Park has planted

it has become a permanent one since 2002. Cadogan Street

different trees, such as Cuban Bast, Horsetail, Flame of the

Temporar y Garden was the second largest park in Kennedy

Wood, Banyan, Palm, and Bauhinia. Amongst which, Horsetail

Town after Belcher Bay Park. The site used to house the abattoir

which is a coastal plant was rarely seen in other parks. Maybe

and incinerator plant. As the land was deemed to be polluted,

this is why they were planted at the Praya. Today, the trees

residents rejected the proposal of Development Bureau for

have grown lushly with closed canopies to form a green screen.

redeveloping the site into private residential buildings. Hence the

Despite its being small, the tranquil Cadogan Street Temporary

land remains to be used for recreational purpose.

Garden is always amongst the best picks of many kaifong .

FACILITIES : PARK 153

Having years of experience in ecological conser vation, Kami

HUI admitted that Kennedy Town does not have enough trees

apart from the parks. “Comparatively, large banyan trees could

be seen more frequently in Sai Ying Pun and Mid-level than in

Kennedy Town. We can see that no space has been designated

for tree planting at the planning stage.” Currently, there were

only 7 banyan trees standing on Forbes Street Tree Wall,

Forbes Street Temporar y Playground, Bus Terminus and Ka

Wai Man Road Garden, which are enlisted in the Tree Register

as Old and Valuable Trees. Contrasting to other new towns,

Sai Wan is less spacious. Hence, we should pay extra attention

to the conservation of trees. “Promoting the appreciation and

understanding of trees and the awareness to surrounding

environment was the first step to conservation.”

街道自十九世紀以來，堅尼地城的街道面貌發生了巨大的變化，

STREETS

許多早期街道的命名都與殖民時期重要歷史人物有關。卑路

乍街以英國海軍軍官愛德華·卑路乍命名，他在一八四一年於

水坑口街附近登陸；大約一八六六至一八六七年，山市先生

開辦了山市船臺，山市街因此得名。一八八六年，由吉席·遮打

爵士發起的卑路乍灣填海計劃完成，新建成了一條街道原稱

遮打街，為避免與中環遮打道重名，後改名為吉席街（吉直街）。

爹核士街命名自香港第二任總督戴維斯爵士。科士街相傳是

源自一位美籍商人威廉·科士，曾是旗昌洋行合夥人。隨著城市

發展，堅尼地城的街道勾勒著這個社區在不同歷史時期的生活

面貌。

Since the 19th Centur y, the streets in Kennedy Town have

undergone drastic changes. The naming of many old streets took

reference to various important historic figures within the colonial

period. Belcher’s Street was named after Admiral Edward

BELCHER who landed near Possession Street nowadays in 1841.

Around 1866 and 1867, Captain George Underhill SANDS opened

his shipyard which had given birth to Sands Street. In 1886, Sir

Catchick Paul CHATER initiated the Belcher Bay Reclamation.

On completion, the newly built street was originally named

Chater Street, but it was later renamed Catchick Street to avoid

overlapping with the Chater Road in Central. Davis Street was

named after the second Governor of Hong Kong, Sir John Francis

DAVIS. Forbes Street was said to be named in memory of an

American businessman, William Howell FORBES who was the

Head Partner of Russell Co. (Kee Cheong Company in Chinese).

As the city developed, the streets in Kennedy Town illustrated the

lives in town in different periods.

車路、人路

卑路乍街、北街

BELCHER’S STREET AND NORTH STREET:

THE ROADS FOR VEHICLES AND PEDESTRIANS

街道 — 卑路乍街、北街 159

堅尼地城是

黃駿出生於八十年代，居於石塘咀三十年，因讀書

和工作的關係，跟堅尼地城結下了不解緣。

『港島的盡頭』

卑路乍街

卑路乍街是堅尼地城開埠初期的海岸線，是以皇家軍艦「硫磺

回憶

號」指揮官而命名，開埠不久就在卑路乍街後的山坡興建砲台，

砲台拆卸後就改建成為公務員住宅，於一九九零年代末重建為「堅尼地城是『港島的盡頭』」，身為石塘咀人的阿駿說，「如果

私人住宅「寶翠園」，卑路乍街面對的海灣稱為卑路乍灣。將西環分做西營盤、石塘咀及堅尼地城三部分，西營盤就是

一個『路過的地方』，石塘咀是『落車回家的地方』，鮮少踏足

堅尼地城。直至讀中學時，有同學在堅城居住，阿駿才開始認識

吳崇傑出生於一九五十年代，少時居於石塘咀唐樓，

這個「盡頭」之地。在他印象中，直至九十年代初，卑路乍街仍

因家中有親戚住在觀龍樓，經常會到堅尼地城。

是雙線行車，車水馬龍十分繁忙。他前來堅尼地城通常乘坐紅

色小巴，每到「新中華飯店」一定有乘客下車，這間被譽為西環

三寶之一的傳統茶樓雖然已消失，但那句「新中華有落」可謂

西環人心目中的「大丸有落」，也深深印在阿駿的腦海中。

回憶

吳崇傑的父親在船上工作，行船時會離家一段時間，阿傑小時

候經常會到觀龍樓的親戚家居住。據他憶述，「由石塘咀去觀龍

樓是步行，沿著卑路乍街一直走。六十年代，寶翠園的位置還是

一座山坡，有山溪流出，還記得制水時去那裡輪水，小孩子們也

喜歡在那裡捉魚仔。現在的保良局陳區碧茵頤養院以前是消防

局救護站，上面是消防宿舍。山邊還有防空洞，那時沒有鐵絲網

圍著。」

街道 — 卑路乍街、北街 161

北街

北街曾建有一座單層街市，建於一九三五年，位於北街十二號，

共設有四十個攤檔。直至七八十年代，北街陸續佈滿大牌檔、

小販和路邊攤檔，後遷入士美菲路市政大樓。

陳永鴻於一九四零年出生，於一九六七年在西環

營業一間茶餐廳，直至一九九七年泓都收樓時結束

營業。

回憶

經營茶餐廳的永鴻，對於北街街市印象深刻，他經常需要從

北街入貨。「五六十年代還沒有現在的市政大樓和街市，整條

北街便成為街市及小販擺賣。現時采逸軒的位置便是政府所

屬單層街市。而北街的卑路乍街至石山街一段便有幾檔大牌檔

賣白粥油條及粉麵等。這些都是上世紀中期堅尼地城的縮影。」

STREETS : BELCHER’S STREET AND NORTH STREET 163

BELCHER’S STREET AND NORTH STREET: WONG Chun Jordan was born in the 80s. He

THE ROADS FOR VEHICLES AND PEDESTRIANS has lived in Shek Tong Tsui for 30 years. Due to

his education and employment, he has a great

Belcher’s Street was by the coast of Kennedy Town at the time of

attachment to Kennedy Town.

Opening of Port. The street was named after Edward Belcher, the

commander of HMS Sulphur of the British Royal Navy. Right after

the colonisation of Hong Kong, a gun battery was built on the

slope behind Belcher’s Street. After the battery was disused, the THE MEMORY

site was redeveloped into the residence of civil servants called “Kennedy Town was ‘the end of Hong Kong Island” said Jordan

“The Belcher’s”. By the end of 1990s, “The Belcher’s” was again from Shek Tong Tsui. “If I could divide Sai Wan into three parts,

redeveloped into a private estate while keeping the name. The they will be Sai Ying Pun, Shek Tong Tsui and Kennedy Town. Sai

bay opposite to Belcher’s Street became Belcher Bay. Ying Pun was ‘a place I passed by’, Shek Tong Tsui, ‘a place I got

off for home’, and Kennedy Town, ‘a place I rarely visit’”. It was

until secondar y school when Jordan knew some classmates

NG Shun-kit Desmond was born in the 1950s. who lived in Kennedy Town that he began to explore this “end” of

He lived in a tonglau at Shek Tong Tsui. As he Hong Kong. According to his impression, Belcher’s Street was a

had relatives living in Kwun Lung Lau, he thus two-lane road with busy traffic. He usually took the red minibus

visited Kennedy Town often. to Kennedy Town. There were always passengers getting off at

“Sun Chung Wah Restaurant”. Regarded as one of the Three

Landmarks of Sai Wan, this traditional teahouse was gone. Yet,

THE MEMORY for him, making a stop call at Sun Chung Wah Restaurant was as

nostalgic as that of Daimaru.

Desmond NG’s father was a seaman and was always away from

home. Hence, Desmond lived with his relative in Kwun Lung Lau.

As he remembered, “It was just some walking to travel from Shek

Tong Tsui to Kwun Lung Lau. You only need to follow Belcher’s

Street. In the 60s, the location where The Belcher’s now is was

a slope. There was a stream and I remembered queuing for

water there. Kids loved to catch fish there too. The current Chan

Au Big Yan Home for the Elderly used to be a fire station-cum-

ambulance depot with firemen quarters. There was also a bomb

shelter by the hillside without the surrounding wire fences.”

STREETS : BELCHER’S STREET AND NORTH STREET 165

NORTH STREET

There was once a single-storey market in North Street. The

former North Street Market was built in 1935 at 12 North Street.

There were a total of 40 stalls. After entering the 70s and 80s,

North Street was gradually filled up with daipaidong , hawkers

and street stalls. These businesses later moved into Smithfield

Municipal Services Building.

CHAN Wing-hung was born in 1940. He opened

a chachaanteng in Sai Wan in 1967. It was closed

in 1997 when the property was repossessed for

the construction of The Merton.

THE MEMORY

Wing-hung, being a chachaanteng owner, has a deep impression

of North Street Market as he had to visit it often for procurement.

“In the 50s and 60s, the current municipal ser vices building

and market was not yet built. The whole of North Street was

a wet market with many hawkers. The location of the present

La Maison du Nord used to be a government-owned single-storey

market. The section of North Street which was between Belcher’s

Street and Rock Hill Street used to have several daipaidong

selling congees, dough-sticks and noodles. These were good

representations of Kennedy Town in the last mid-century.”

167

小巷的前世今生

石山街、健文街

ROCK HILL STREET AND KIN MAN STREET:

THE NOW AND THEN OF AN ALLEY

街道 — 石山街、健文街 169

從前的健文街

李遠根自出生後住在石山街一號唐三樓裡，後來

唐樓清拆搬出後曾住過山市街，至今一直居於

堅尼地城。

是一條食街，

遍佈牌檔車仔

石山街回憶

石山街現時為與卑路乍街平行，位於其南的一條街道，「從前石山街是掘頭巷，除了唐樓外，靠山的那邊只有三種行業：

貫通山市街、北街與士美菲路。在士美菲路市政大廈建成前，芽菜寮、油倉和斬柴老伯。」據遠根回憶，五十年代的石山街很

石山街曾是掘頭路。短，從山市街起至今日曉順閣止，不到今天的三分之一。石山街

北有兩幢三層高唐樓共十四伙，唐樓旁邊後來興建了保發大廈

和一個小公園。而石山街南則是遠根的童年遊樂場。「母親只准

我們在家門口玩耍。家對面的芽菜寮是一間尖頂大屋，大約二千

呎，裡面有四口水井，可能是用來浸芽菜的。有兩個井水不深，

我和同伴們喜歡跳下去玩。制水時也會來水井裝水，芽菜寮的

人從來不阻止，還幫我打水。斬柴老伯的檔口就很小，貪玩的我

經常把老伯辛辛苦苦堆砌好的柴堆弄亂，經常被他罵，哈哈！」

遠根於一九六八年搬離石山街，至今仍會記起曾經的歲月。

街道 — 石山街、健文街 171

阿娟生於五十年代的西環，居住至今。

回憶

父親和兄長在堅尼地城魚欄工作，阿娟童年時已經對五街非常

熟悉。「從前的健文街是一條食街，遍佈牌檔車仔：有燒鵝瀨粉、

牛雜粉麵、車仔麵、冬天有臘味糯米飯……大家坐在木箱上吃，

食材新鮮，味道可好呢！」這些「抵食又大件」的美味服務著

堅尼地城基層的勞動人口。據阿娟回憶，從前的西環聚集了許多

勞動力，豬牛欄、魚欄、菜欄、貨倉，這些工人們往往凌晨三四點

就要起身工作。於是車仔檔也凌晨開檔，通常經營至下午二時

左右，配合批發市場的營業時間。「由於來自不同的食品批發

市場，很多時候這些人做完一輪批發，便會自攜食材到牌檔作

健文街『來料加工』，所以食物特別美味，因為他們個個都是食家！」

阿娟憶起昔日的西環「搵食勝地」，至今仍回味無窮。

健文街曾經位於堅尼地城爹核士街旁，後因興建泓都而消失。

泓都的興建涉及到堅尼地城新海旁、加多近街、爹核士街、

吉席街和健文街，亦稱「西環五街重建計劃」。已經消失的

健文街大約位於今天的泓都三座。

STREETS : ROCK HILL STREET AND KIN MAN STREET 173

ROCK HILL STREET AND KIN MAN STREET : Two of the wells were shallow, and my pals and I loved to jump in

THE NOW AND THEN OF AN ALLEY and play. During the water rationing period, I would fetch water

from these wells. The staff of the bean sprout shed had not

Rock Hill Street is parallel to Belcher’s Street and is located

stopped me but rather helped me fill the buckets. The shop of the

on its south. It is a street linking Sands Street, North Street

old woodcutter was much smaller. As I was mischievous, I often

and Smithfield. Before the completion of Smithfield Municipal

knocked down the well-stacked firewood and got scolded by the

Services Building, Rock Hill Street was once a one-way road.

old man. Haha!” LI moved out of Rock Hill Street in 1968, but her

memories of the old days are still as vivid as if they happened

LI Yuen-kan lived on the third tenement floor on only yesterday.

1 Rock Hill Street since birth. She had lived on

Sands Street after the tonglau was demolished.

She continues to live in Kennedy Town until now. KIN MAN STREET

Kin Man Street was once connected to Davis Street in Kennedy

Town, however it disappeared after The Merton was built. The

construction of The Merton involved the area of New Praya,

THE MEMORY Kennedy Town, Cadogan Street, Davis Street, Catchick Street and

Kin Man Street (i.e. The Five Streets of Sai Wan). It was called “The

“In the past, Rock Hill Street was a one-way road. Apart from

Kennedy Town New Praya Project”. The missing Kin Man Street

tonglau , there were only three businesses operating at the

was roughly located at the place of where Block 3 of The Merton

hill foot: a bean sprout shed, an oil warehouse and an old

is now.

woodcutter.” According to Yuen-kan, Rock Hill Street was very

short in the 50s. Extending across Sands Street and nowadays’

Houston Court, it was only one-third of today’s length. North of

Ah Kuen was born in the 50s in Sai Wan, and

Rock Hill Street were two blocks of three-storey tonglau with

has lived until today.

a total of 14 households. Po Fat Building and a small sitting-

out area were built next to the tonglau later. The southern side

of Rock Hill Street was the playground of Yuen-kan during her

childhood. “My mother only allowed us kids to play at the door THE MEMORY

front. Opposite to our residence was a bean sprout shed with a

Having a father and an older brother who worked at the fish

pointed roof of 2 000 square feet in size. Inside were four wells

market in Kennedy Town, Ah Kuen is very familiar with the Five

which were presumably used for watering the bean sprouts.

Streets of Sai Wan. “Kin Man Street in the old days was a place

for food. It was full of street hawkers offering food such as

STREETS : ROCK HILL STREET AND KIN MAN STREET 175

roasted goose noodle, beef offal noodle and cart noodle. There

was also steamed sticky rice with Chinese sausages during

winter. Ever yone would eat while sitting on wooden crates.

With fresh ingredients, they made tasty street food!” These

delicacies with “high cost-price ratio” had filled many stomachs

of the working class in Kennedy Town. As recalled by Ah Kuen,

Sai Wan had gathered a huge workforce to satisfy the manpower

needs of the livestock depots, fish and vegetable markets and

warehouses. These workers usually start their day of work at

around 3 to 4 a.m., hence the street food hawkers also opened

business at small hours. They continued their ser vices until

2:00 p.m. to fit the business hours of the wholesale markets. “As

these workmen came from different food wholesale markets,

they would bring along their own food ingredients from their

workplaces to these street stalls for processing. The food would

be especially tasty as these workmen are gourmets!” Ah Kuen’s

mouth would still water when she thinks of the “food paradise” of

Sai Wan in the old days.

從小販區到蘇豪西

厚和街、科士街

HAU WO STREET AND FORBES STREET:

FROM HAWKER MARKET TO SOHO

街道 — 厚和街、科士街 179

厚和街原本是街市，

婉霞的父親在堅尼地城菜欄工作，她自小常到

堅尼地城。直至八十年代初從灣仔遷至堅尼地城，

並居住至今。

魚檔菜檔很熱鬧。

厚和街是一條位於堅尼地城的東西走向的街道，東起回憶

士美菲路，西至爹核士街。短短的一百米卻演繹著堅尼地城

「厚和街原本是街市，魚檔菜檔很熱鬧。」從前的堅尼地城可謂

不同年代的社區面貌。在厚和街不遠處，連接士美菲路和

處處街市，曾經熙熙攘攘的厚和街充滿著生活氣息。隨著社區

加多近街的科士街，有著全港規模數一數二的石牆樹。整幅石

發展，街上小販遷入市政大樓，人口漸漸增多的西環交通壓力

牆樹保存相對完好，約有百年歷史，高大的細葉榕樹一字排開，

也逐漸增大。厚和街從濕漉漉的街市轉變成交通樞紐，據婉霞

盤根錯節，是西環最美的自然風景之一。從上世紀五十年代

回憶，「八十年代，厚和街有小巴總站，有一條路線前往南區，

至今，這兩條街道的景象可謂是時代發展的縮影。

好多人都在這裡排隊等車。」在地鐵尚未觸及西環的年代，這裡

是西環前往南區的必經之地。

如今的厚和街，舊樓拆卸了，街市搬走了，車站消失了。這樣的

轉變與堅尼地城的另一條街 —— 科士街如出一轍。曾經佈滿

小販和雞鴨欄的科士街，隨著社區發展而轉型。

「八十年代

雞鴨欄拆除後到二零一零年早期，科士街有許多車房。平時很

少人經過，但一到週末就有『豪車展』

，很多私家車來洗車或

做汽車美容。」而現今的科士街也時有豪車出沒，卻是有車一族

週末前來「搵食」而非洗車。據婉霞回憶，科士街曾有兩條紅色

小巴線前往中環和銅鑼灣，如今也已銷聲匿跡。

街道 — 厚和街、科士街 181

在婉霞眼中，轉捩點大約在最近二十年。二零零零年後，隨著

附近大型屋苑的建成，帶來不少消費能力高的住戶，西環開始

轉型，厚和街出現了許多西式糕點舖和高級餐廳，科士街的車房

變成了酒吧和充滿異國情調的西餐廳，但由於租金昂貴等種種

原因，這些高級食府往往過一段時間又換了一批，鮮少能長期立

足於區內。看來，這些「搵食好去處」本身亦面臨「搵食艱難」

的窘境。據婉霞憶述，科士街上唯一十幾年不變的，要數一間

廢紙回收舖，雖然舖位在這條街幾經遷移，但仍然營運至今。

「現在的科士街和厚和街，好像沒人居住似的。但一到晚上或

有重要足球賽事，街上的餐廳或酒吧又變得熱鬧起來。」從前

充滿生活的小街，如今顯得冷清清，而入夜之後或許又是另一番

場景。

STREETS : HAU WO STREET AND FORBES STREET 183

HAU WO STREET AND FORBES STREET : In nowadays Hau Wo Street, the older buildings were torn down,

FROM HAWKER MARKET TO SOHO the market was moved away and the terminus had disappeared.

These changes also happened to another street in Kennedy

Hau Wo Street runs from east to west in Kennedy Town. It starts

Town – Forbes Street. Forbes Street was once filled with hawkers

eastward at Smithfield and ends westward at Davis Street. From

and poultry pens, but it was no longer the case as the community

just a small street stretching only 100 metres, Hau Wo Street

evolved. “Around the 80s, the poultry pens were removed. While

has depicted the different eras of Kennedy Town in a single area.

in the early 2010s, there had been many garages in Forbes

Forbes Street, which links Smithfield and Cadogan Street, owns

Street. There were not many passers-by during weekdays.

one of the largest masonry wall trees in Hong Kong. The masonry

However, there would be a ‘luxury auto show’ on weekends when

wall trees are well preserved and are around a century old. The

many private cars came for a car wash or detailing.”

towering banyan trees line along the wall with the interlocking

roots and branches. It was amongst the most beautiful natural Nowadays, there are still many luxurious cars visiting Forbes

scenery of Sai Wan. Since the 1950s, the above two streets have Street, but the drivers come here for “food” but not a wash. As

been fine examples of urban development. remembered by Yuen-har, there used to be two routes of public

light bus destined for Central and Causeway Bay. They are

Yuen-har’s father worked in the vegetable stall nowhere to be seen now.

in Kennedy Town, she frequented the area

In Yuen-har’s opinion, she considers that the turning point of

since childhood. She moved from Wan Chai to

the area was at 20 years ago. After 2000, there were many

Kennedy Town in the early 80s and has lived

large residential estates established in the area, bringing many

there until today.

residents with high purchasing power. Hence, Sai Wan began to

transform. Many Western patisseries and high-end restaurants

popped up in Hau Wo Street. The garages in Forbes Street also

THE MEMORY

turned into pubs and exotic bistros. Due to high rents and other

“Hau Wo Street used to be a wet market with many fish and factors, these fine diners change often and not many of them can

vegetable stalls.” Markets were seen ever y where in the old survive in the community. It seems that bread is hardly buttered

Kennedy Town. Hau Wo Street used to be a lively place. As the even for these eateries. According to Yuen-har, the only business

community developed, street hawkers moved into the municipal that prevails in the community was a paper-recycling shop.

ser vices building, while the growing population had brought Although it has migrated several times to different stores within

increasing pressure to the traffic of Sai Wan. Hau Wo Street the same street, it continues to operate until today.

transformed from a slippery wet market town into a transport

“Forbes Street and Hau Wo Street seem to be deserted in day

node. As Yuen-har recalled, “In the 80s, there was a minibus

time, but the restaurants and bars will be crawled with people

terminus at Hau Wo Street. Many queued up to head for the

in the evening or whenever there is a major football match.” The

Southern District.” Before MTR extended its service to Sai Wan,

once lively streets have now become quiet. Only the night may

it was the transport hub to Southern District from Sai Wan.

bring life back to the place.

海岸線的回憶

堅尼地城海旁

KENNEDY TOWN PRAYA:

THE MEMORY OF COASTLINE

街道 — 堅尼地城海旁 187

從前電車路海旁全部

出生於一九五九年的蔡利達從小住在吉席街唐樓

單位，後來搬至對面向海的大廈單位。他曾有七年

時間在國外生活，一九九一年回流香港後一直居於

都是貨倉，也是小朋友堅尼地城。

玩耍的『補給倉』

堅尼地城的電車路主要設於堅尼地城海旁及吉席街上。西行回憶

電車路在石塘咀皇后大道西的盡頭轉彎後，正式駛入了堅尼

「小時候由於爸爸在中環上班，他常帶我遊電車河，從堅尼地城

地城的範圍。這條街道名為「堅尼地城海旁 Kennedy Town

搭電車一直到東區。」西環的電車路，在阿達記憶中曾是最靠近

Praya」，Praya 這個字源於葡萄牙語，意指海濱條狀土地。

海邊、旁邊遍佈躉船和貨倉的一段路。「從前電車路海旁全部

上世紀九十年代之前，電車路旁就是海，直至卑路乍灣填海

都是貨倉，也是小朋友玩耍的『補給倉』」。阿達依稀記得，六十

工程後，所得的土地現今為卑路乍灣公園和堅尼地城泳池。

年代他跟一群男同學玩射豆槍，把平時家長給的零用錢存下買

把玩具槍。至於「子彈」便就地取材，去西環的貨倉地下撿拾

搬運時灑落的黃豆，便可以「玩餐飽」了。海旁的夜晚更是許多

街坊釣魚、散步的共享空間。

189

林湯麗珍女士與兒子林長健、新抱劉靜欣住在現今

堅尼地城泳池對面。生於上世紀四十年代的林太太

自小在堅尼地城長大，婚後曾搬離一段時間，兒子

出生後又回到西環。

回憶李世業於十五年前經朋友介紹搬入堅尼地城，住在

歌連臣街近海旁的樓宇內。這十幾年中，他見證了

「以前的海旁好熱鬧，像大笪地一樣。」據林太太回憶，大約

西環的填海工程。

五六十年代，從北街到士美菲路一段海旁，夜晚是街坊的納涼

勝地。「有賣雪條和雪糕、賣武的，可以看表演，還有講古佬講

武俠小說……一到夜晚，海旁就旺起來。跟鄰居們聊天、看表演、

吹海風，時間差不多就回家睡覺，多麼愜意！」林太太兒子阿健

成長於七八十年代，「那時的海旁已經靜了，但我跟妹妹也很

喜歡到海邊玩。」海邊米倉林立，苦力們在搬運途中難免會灑

落一些米粒在地上，眼尖的阿健就和妹妹在貨倉門口捉米蟲。回憶

「現在回憶起來也很開心。」不同年代的西環海旁，鐫刻著

「享受西環的海景，卻也擔心颱風天氣。」李世業道出了海旁

林太太和兒子兩代人童年美好的記憶。

一帶居民的心聲。「以前未填海時，電車路旁就是海，颱風天時，

我在家裡看著海面湧浪不斷拍打在電車路上，很是厲害。」搬來

堅尼地城不久後，世業就面臨自家門口即將進行填海，「一開

始有些擔心，不知道前方新建築物是否會阻擋景觀，後來得知

是較低層的泳池，便安心了。所以現在住在海旁，仍能飽覽硫磺

海峽和大小青洲，遠眺青馬大橋和大嶼山。」

STREETS : KENNEDY TOWN PRAYA 191

KENNEDY TOWN PRAYA : THE MEMORY OF COASTLINE Mrs. LAM-TONG Lai-chun, her son Ken LAM and

her daughter-in-law Denise LIEW currently live

The tramway of Kennedy Town was mainly built on Kennedy

opposite to Kennedy Town Swimming Pool. Born

Town Praya and Catchick Street. When the westbound tramway

in the 1940s, Mrs. L AM grew up in Kennedy

makes its turn at the end of Queen’s Road West in Shek Tong

Town. Despite leaving the place shortly after

Tsui, it officially entered the realm of Kennedy Town. The street

marriage, she returned to Sai Wan after the

was called Kenendy Town Praya. Praya was a word originated

birth of her son.

from Portuguese, meaning a strip of land by the coast. Before

the 1990s, the sea was just next to the tramway. It was until the

Belcher Bay Reclamation that Belcher Bay Park and Kennedy

THE MEMORY

Town Swimming Pool were built on the newfound land.

“The harbourfront was as vibrant as Sheung Wan Gala Point.”

Stephen CHOI was born and raised in a tonglau According to Mrs. L AM, the shoreline from Nor th Street to

flat in Catchick Street in 1959, and later moved Smithfield around the 50s and 60s was a favourite spot for

to the opposite building facing the harbour. kaifong to chill out. “There were hawkers selling ice creams

He had lived overseas for seven years, and and popsicles, kung fu performances and storytellers reciting

returned to Hong Kong in 1991. Since then, he martial arts novels. The coast was crowded up every evening.

has been living in Kennedy Town. You might spend your night chatting with neighbours, watching

performances, bathing in the sea breezes, and then return home

to rest when it was about time. What a life to have!” Ken, son of

THE MEMORY Mrs. LAM, grew up in Kennedy Town in the 70s and 80s. “The

coast by that time had become quieter, yet my sister and I loved

“When I was young, my father used to work in Central. He often to play by the sea.” There were many granaries at the waterfront.

brought me to take a tram ride from Kennedy Town all the way Coolies would inevitably spill out some grains when moving them.

to the Eastern District.” The tramway of Sai Wan, as recalled by The sharp-eyed Ken and his sister used to catch rice weevils at

Stephen, was once the section closest to the coast with many the doors of granaries. “It was such a sweet memory.” The coast

barges and warehouses. “In the past, the harbourfront next of Sai Wan of different eras inscribed the joyful childhoods of the

to the tramway was full of warehouses. It was also the ‘ammo two generations.

depot’ for children.” Stephen remembered that he played airsoft

guns with his fellow schoolboys in the 60s. He saved up most

of the pocket money from his parents to buy a toy gun. For the

“bullets”, he would improvise by collecting soybeans spilled on

the ground at the warehouses of Sai Wan. This was enough for

children to enjoy “a whole day of fun”. The seaside at night was

also a common area for kaifong to fish or to have a walk.

STREETS : KENNEDY TOWN PRAYA 193

LEE Sai-ip Michael moved to Kennedy Town on

the recommendation of his friend and now lives

in a building by the coast in Collinson Street. He

has witnessed the reclamation of Sai Wan for

the past decade.

THE MEMORY

“I enjoy the sea view of Sai Wan, but at the same time I am

anxious about typhoons.” Michael voiced out the worries of

many residents living by the coast. “When the coast was not yet

reclaimed, the sea was just beside the tramway. When typhoons

struck, I saw waves hitting the tramway unceasingly, which was

quite exciting.” Shortly after Michael moved to Kennedy Town,

he had to face the reclamation right in front of his flat. “At first,

I was worried, as I did not know if the new buildings would block

my view. When I learnt later that it was only a low-rise swimming

pool, I was much relieved. So, I can still overlook the Sulphur

Channel, Green Island and Little Green Island, and even as far as

Tsing Ma Bridge and Lantau Island.”

195

堅尼地城大事年表

CHRONOLOGY OF KENNEDY TOWN

1884 魯班先師廟建成 1923 西區消防局建立於卑路乍街，現時為安老院

Lo Pan Temple was built. Former Western Fire Station was built on Belcher's Street

and is now an elderly home.

1886 卑路乍灣填海工程完成，於山坡興築卑路乍砲台

Belcher Bay Reclamation was completed. Belchers Battery was built on the slope. 1924 魯班廟及所在之地正式由廣悅堂管理，四年後重修

Lo Pan Temple and the land it sat on were handed over to Kwong Yuet Tong and

1894 屠房、豬羊欄竣工，西環牛房開始運作

the temple was refurbished four years later.

Slaughterhouse and pig and sheep depot was completed.

Sai Wan Cattle Depot started to operate. 1932 鐘聲慈善社同人在西環蓋搭鐘聲泳棚

Chung Sing Benevolent Society built the Chung Sing Swimming Shed in Sai Wan.

1894 太平山地區發生鼠疫，政府將堅尼地城玻璃廠和警察局改為醫院治療鼠疫病人

Bubonic plague broke out in Tai Ping Shan District. The government converted 1935 北街單層街市建成，共設四十個攤檔

Kennedy Town Glassworks and Police Station into temporar y plague hospitals. Single-storey North Street Market was built with 40 stalls.

1901 東華醫院西環分區開幕 1936 煤氣鼓搬遷至堅尼地城

Tung Wah Infectious Diseases Hospital opened. Gasholder was moved into Kennedy Town.

1903 維多利亞城界碑劃定堅尼地城為維多利亞城 1937 堅尼地城新街市建成於加多近街，設有鮮魚欄、鹹魚欄、果菜欄共百間

Victoria City Boundar y Stone included Kennedy Town into the area of Victoria City. The new Kennedy Town market was built in Cadogan Street with a hundred fresh

fish laan, salted fish laan and vegetable and fruit laan.

1904 電車通行，由堅尼地城至銅鑼灣

Tramway between Kennedy Town and Causeway Bay entered into ser vice. 1930s 卑路乍灣山坡設有防空洞

Bomb shelters were built on the slope of Belcher Bay.

1907 天花爆發，東華醫院西區分局改作痘局，翌年東華痘局正式成立

Smallpox pandemic broke out and Tung Wah Infectious Diseases Hospital was 1949 西環街坊福利會成立

redeveloped into Tung Wah Smallpox Hospital. Kennedy Town Kai-fong Welfare Association was founded.

1900s 西環雞鴨欄開始運作 1950 廣悅堂公所落成

Sai Wan Poultr y Laan began to operate. Kwong Yuet Tong Public Office was built.

1910 東華痘局建成（至 1938） 1952 道慈佛社成立

Tung Wah Smallpox Hospital was completed (operated until 1938). Buddhist To Chi Fat She was founded.

1915 西環太白樓開張 1953 鐘聲學校由上環原址遷入堅尼地城泳場對面的空地

Tai Pak Lau Amusement Park opened in Sai Wan. Chung Sing Benevolent School moved from Sheung Wan

to the site opposite to Kennedy Town Swimming Shed.

1918 東華醫院一別亭建成（至 1958），又稱「辭靈亭」

Tung Wah Hospital Funeral Parlour was built (operated until 1958) 1959 西環邨落成並入夥

Sai Wan Estate was completed and occupied.

1920s 西環七臺建成

The Seven Terraces of Sai Wan was constructed.

197

1963 堅尼地城海旁碼頭貨車爆炸事故，翌年西環盂蘭勝會成立 1996 士美菲路臨時公園拆除，興建士美非路市政大廈

Truck explosion accident happened at the pier of Kennedy Town Praya Smithfield Temporar y Park was demolished for the

and Sai Wan Yue Lan Association was founded next year. construction of Smithfield Municipal Ser vices Building.

1960s 加多近街海旁進行填海工程 1999 堅尼地城屠房關閉

Reclamation began at the waterfront of Cadogan Street. Kennedy Town Abattoir was closed.

1965 鐘聲泳棚西遷，舊址興建巴士總站 1990s 堅尼地城海旁進行填海工程

Chung Sing Swimming Shed moved westward and the Reclamation began at Kennedy Town Praya.

old site was redeveloped into a bus terminus.

1999 卑路乍灣臨時公園落成於堅尼地城海旁新填海區，後於 2002 年改為永久公園

1966 堅尼地城焚化爐投入運作 Belcher Bay Park was built temporarily at newly reclaimed

Kennedy Town Incinerator Plant started operation. Kennedy Town Praya, which was converted into a permanent park in 2002.

1968 觀龍樓落成並入夥 2011 座落於海旁新填海區的堅尼地城泳池正式啟用

Kwun Lung Lau was completed and occupied. The new Kennedy Town Swimming Pool was put into service at

the newly reclaimed area of Kennedy Town Praya.

1968 加多近街海旁堅尼地城屠房建成，舊屠房搬遷

Kennedy Town Abattoir was built at the coast of 2014 港鐵西港島延綫通車

Cadogan Street. The old slaughterhouse was moved. MTR West Island Line entered into ser vice.

1974 位於士美菲路的舊堅尼地城泳池開幕

The old Kennedy Town Swimming Pool was opened on Smithfield.

1981 煤氣鼓拆卸，原址興建私人住宅

The gasholder was demolished and was replaced with private residences.

1986 西環牛房關閉，原址改建為士美非路臨時公園

Sai Wan Cattle Depot was closed and was redeveloped as

Smithfield Temporar y Park.

1987 科士街雞鴨欄前往西區臨時家禽批發市場

Poultr y pens in Forbes Street were moved to Western

Temporar y Wholesale Poultr y Market.

1993 焚化爐關閉

The incinerator plant was closed.

1994 觀龍樓山泥傾瀉事件，釀成五人死亡

Landslide at Kwun Lung Lau caused five dead.

199

影像資料

LIST OF IMAGES

P.9 堅尼地城觀龍樓和煤氣鼓 P.50-1 聯發新樓售樓書

Kwun Lung Lau and gasholder in Kennedy Town Sales brochure of Luen Fat Apartments

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department @ 徐佩君小姐 Miss CHUI Pui-Kwan

P.13 堅尼地城望西北方 P.50-2 聯德新樓售樓書

Kennedy Town looking north-west Sales brochure of Luen Tak Apartments

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department @ 徐佩君小姐 Miss CHUI Pui-Kwan

P.18-19 一九七二年，青蓮臺和桃李臺 P.74 堅尼地城海旁遍佈貨倉

Ching Lin Terrace and To Li Terrace in 1972 Kennedy Town Praya was lined with warehouses

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處提供 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department @ 張順光先生 Mr. CHEUNG Shun-kwong

P.23 太白樓遊樂場開張廣告 P.76 遠望堅尼地城海旁貨倉

Tai Pak Amusement Park opening advertisement Distant view of the warehouses at Kennedy Town Praya

@ 香港華字日報 1918 年 8 月 31 日 The Chinese Mail, 31st August 1918 @ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

P.36-37 一九六三年，西環邨 P.77 一九六零年代，由山市街望向堅尼地城海旁的貨倉區

Sai Wan Estate in 1963 View of warehouses at Kennedy Town Praya from Sands Street

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department @ 鄭寶鴻先生 Mr. CHENG Po-hung

P.40 一九六三年西環邨全貌 P.90 魯班誕慶祝活動

Aerial view of Sai Wan Estate in 1963 Celebration on the Birthday of LO Pan

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department @ 香港魯班廣悅堂 Hong Kong Lo Pan Kwong Yuet Tong

P.43 六十年代西環邨活動室 P.92-93 一九五六年，由泳場位置拍攝鐘聲慈善社學校

Activity room in Sai Wan Estate Photograph of Chung Sing Benevolent School taken

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department from the swimming shed in 1956

@ 鐘聲慈善社 Chung Sing Benevolent Society

P.46 聯德新樓售樓書

Sales brochure of Luen Tak Apartments P.94 一九五四年鐘聲游泳場增建主台

@ 徐佩君小姐 Miss CHUI Pui-Kwan The main stage was added to Chung Sing Swimming Shed in 1954

@ 鐘聲慈善社 Chung Sing Benevolent Society

P.48 聯德新樓單位

Flat unit in Luen Tak Apartments P.97 一九五七年鐘聲泳棚端午節龍舟競渡

@ 徐佩君小姐 Miss CHUI Pui-Kwan Dragon boat racing held at Chung Sing Swimming Shed during Tuen Ng Festival in 1957

@ 鐘聲慈善社 Chung Sing Benevolent Society

201

P.99 一九四九年鐘聲慈善社義學畢業照 P.136-137 一九六八年鳥瞰堅尼地城，海旁焚化爐和屠房

Graduation photo of Chung Sing Benevolent Society free school in 1949 Aerial view of Kennedy Town including incinerator plant and abattoir at Praya in 1968

@ 鐘聲慈善社 Chung Sing Benevolent Society @ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

P.100-101 一九六四年第一屆西環盂蘭勝會值理合影 P.141 堅尼地城焚化爐

Group photograph of the first committee members of Kennedy Town Incinerator Plant

Sai Wan Yue Lan Association taken in 1964 @ Mr. Billy CHAN

@ 西環盂蘭勝會 Sai Wan Yue Lan Association

P.145 一九八七年工作日誌

P.107 西環盂蘭勝會 A work log in 1987

Sai Wan Yu Lan Festival @ Ir. Sunny NG

@ 西環盂蘭勝會 Sai Wan Yue Lan Association

P.161 一九七四年北街街景

P.120-121 堅尼地城屠場 Street view of North Street in 1974

Kennedy Town Abbattoir @ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

@ 徐佩君小姐 Miss CHUI Pui-Kwan

P.170 一九七四年佈滿小販的西環街道

P.124 西環牛隻傷人報道 A street filled with hawkers in Sai Wan in 1974

News report on cattle injuring people in Sai Wan @ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

@ 香港工商日報 1957 年 5 月 20 日 The Kung Sheung Daily News, 20th May 1957

P.186 堅尼地城電車總站

P.125 一九六八年觀龍樓、舊屠房和西環邨 Kennedy Town Tram Terminus

Kwun Lung Lau, old slaughterhouse and Sai Wan Estate @ 張順光先生 Mr. CHEUNG Shun-kwong

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

P.191 堅尼地城海旁，背景是摩星嶺

P.128-129 一九七四年，科士街士美菲路交界雞鴨欄 Coast of Kennedy Town with Mt. Davis in background

Poultr y pens at the junction of Forbes Street and Smithfield @ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

@ 香港特別行政區政府新聞處 HKSAR Information Ser vices Department

P.193 堅尼地城海旁填海

P.133 科士街雞鴨欄商人正式遷往西區臨時家禽批發市場 Reclamation at Praya, Kennedy Town

Merchants of poultr y laan officially moved into @ 蔡利達先生 Mr. CHOI Lee-tat

Western Temporar y Poultr y Wholesale Market

@ 華僑日報 1987 年 9 月 1 日 Wah Kiu Yat Po, 1st September 1987 P.193 一九九八年正在建設中的卑路乍灣公園

Belcher Bay Park under construction in 1998

@ 許淑君小姐 Miss HUI Shuk-kwan

203

鳴謝

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

（排名不分先後 IN ARBITRARY ORDER）

伍婉霞周遊安彭秀麗劉靜欣永昌香燭文具

NG Yuen-har CHOW You-on PANG Sau-lai LIEW Cheng-yan Wing Cheung Joss Sticks and Candles

杜月冰徐奇雄彭娟好盧焯成西環盂蘭勝會有限公司

TO Yuet-ping CHUI Kee-hung PANG Kuen-ho LO Cheuk-shing Sai Wan Yue Lan Association Limited

李世業徐佩君馮立盧碧玲吳江南國術體育會

LEE Sai-ip CHUI Pui-kwan FENG Li LO Pik-ling Ng Kwong Nam Martial Arts Gymnasium

李遠根凌順珍黃允祈賴雪芬奇香村茶行

LI Yuen-kan NING Shun-chun WONG Wan-kei L AI Suet-fun Betsy Kee Heung Chun Tea Company

李權峰陳立霞黃志強藍秀雲明愛莫張瑞勤社區中心

LEE Kuen-fung CHAN Lap-har WONG Chi-keung L AM Sau-wan Caritas Mok Cheung Sui Kun Community Centre

吳志文陳永鴻黃倩彤藍燕兒香港特別行政區政府新聞處

Sunny NG CHAN Wing-hung WONG Sin-Tung NAM Yin-yee Hong Kong SAR Information Ser vices Department

吳崇傑陳奕康黃駿鍾睿維香港聖公會聖路加福群會長者鄰舍中心

NG Shun-kit CHAN Yik-hong Mark WONG Chun CHUNG Yui-wai H.K.S.K.H. St. Luke's Settlement Neighbourhood Elderly Centre

何國祥陳閏儀勞鑑謝曉陶香港魯班廣悅堂

HO Kwok-cheung CHAN Yun-yee LO Kam TSE Hiu-to Hong Kong Lo Pan Kwong Yuet Tong

林長健崔曼詩蔡利達謝寶昕新杜洪記山貨竹器

L AM Cheung-kin CHUI Man-sze CHOI Lee-tat TSE Po-yan New To Hung Kee Mountain Goods

林淑滿許淑君鄭寶鴻羅婉貞燦記酒莊

L AM Sook-moon HUI Shuk-kwan CHENG Po-hung LO Yuen-ching Chain Kee Wine Store

林惠群梁樂山鄧玉雲蘇陽彪鐘聲慈善社

L AM Wai-kwan LEUNG Lok-shan TANG Yuk-wan SO Yeung-piu Bill Chung Sing Benevolent Society

林湯麗珍張順光鄧詩恩 Billy CHAN

L AM-tong Lai-chun CHEUNG Shun-kwong TANG Sze-yan

香港賽馬會社區資助計劃— 本計劃由香港賽馬會慈善信託基金捐助、長春社文化古蹟資源

賽馬會世代共融社區文化遺產計劃中心主辦。計劃紮根社區，透過舉辦不同類型活動，鼓勵世代

THE HONG KONG JOCKEY CLUB 溝通，促進跨代共融，並營造社區參與的氛圍，提升社區各持份

COMMUNITY PROJECT GRANT:

者對歷史文化保育的投入，增強社區凝聚力。香港賽馬會慈善

JOCKEY CLUB CULTURAL HERITAGE

信託基金於 2005 年起開展社區資助計劃，為夥伴機構提供

COMMUNITY INTEGRATION SCHEME

三年一期的捐助，推行適切的社區服務，支援不同弱勢社群。

The Scheme is organised by the Conservancy Association Centre

for Heritage (CACHe) and funded by The Hong Kong Jockey Club

Charities Trust. Through various community-based activities, the

Scheme serves to encourage intergenerational exchanges and

embrace social inclusion. It is also committed to enhancing the

ambience of community engagement and participation in cultural

heritage conservation and strengthening social cohesion.

Launched in 2005, The Hong Kong Jockey Club Charities Trust

Community Project Grant provides its partners with funding in

three-year cycles to deliver appropriate community services and

support the underprivileged.

關於我們長春社文化古蹟資源中心（CACHe）於 2005 年成立，一直積極

ABOUT US 舉辦古蹟保育活動。我們將繼續秉承宗旨，推廣香港歷史文化，

建立知識交流平台，鼓勵大眾參與社區文化遺產保育，建立

社區身份認同。

Established in 2005, The Conservancy Association Centre for

Heritage (CACHe) is committed to organising different heritage

conservation activities. Our mission is to promote the history and

culture of Hong Kong, to develop a knowledge exchange platform,

and to encourage public engagement in the conser vation of

community cultural heritage and hence enhance the realisation

of their social identities.

書名 Name of book 堅人見誌—堅尼地城社區歷史回憶

Ever y Kennedian to His Taste:

Community histories and memories of Kennedy Town

編輯團隊 Editing team 劉國偉 L AU Kwok-wai

陳滌樺 CHAN Tik-wah

邵琬欣 SHAO Wanxin

作者 Author 邵琬欣 SHAO Wanxin

翻譯 Translator 黎俊翹 L AI Chun-kiu

攝影 Photograph 劉國偉 L AU Kwok-wai

梁耀成 LEUNG Yiu-shing

pengguin.hk

邵琬欣 SHAO Wanxin

設計 Design pengguin.hk

出版 Publisher 長春社文化古蹟資源中心

The Conser vancy Association Centre for Heritage

地址 Address 西營盤西邊街 36A 後座

Annex Block, 36A Western Street, Sai Ying Pun

電話 Telephone (852) 2291 0238

傳真 Fax (852) 2291 0236

網址 Website w w w.cache.org.hk

電郵 Email info@cache.org.hk

FACEBOOK cache.org.hk

INSTAGRAM cachehk

版次 Edition 2018 年 3 月初版 March 2018, 1st edition

國際書號 ISBN 978-988-14224-5-3

感謝近利（香港）有限公司贊助紙張

This book is printed on paper sponsored by Antalis (Hong Kong) Limited

Printed on recycled paper with soy ink

堅人見誌-堅尼地城社區歷史回憶 | 長春社 | 2018